Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, 2003
Page Views: 4,918 total · 32/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Jan 13, 2008 with improvements by Adam Block
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

About 40 feet right of Da Fly on the next buttress with an overhanging bulge at mid height, this route starts on red rock with an obvious, chalked jug at the first bolt. It follows a medium-sized, left-facing dihedral to a hands off ledge (5.11) then fires up well protected blocky stone to the overhang. The crux (V6 or 7) involves pinches, two crimps and a sloper, all a wonderful break from the technical tweakiness that usually defines Shelf Road. Pull the crux and enjoy beautiful 5.10 climbing to the chains (even the resemblence of a tufa at the top!) all in all fun movement with a hard hitting crux and no hands rests in between.

Location

This is 40 feet right of Da Fly (5.13a) on the next buttress with a small, overhanging roof at mid-height.

Protection

Bring 14 quickdraws and a boulderer's mindset.

Photos