Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 1991
Page Views: 2,051 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


74 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fantasia is a fine route on the left side of Cactus Cliff.

Climb easy terrain to a high first bolt before laybacking up a left-facing feature beneath a small roof. Pull over the roof, then crank on some small holds to reach a ledge. Rest here before racing through the headwall to the anchor. It is an excellent route, almost three stars; great moves, stone, but it is just lacking a little in continuity.

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Peter Yakovchuk
Tempe, AZ
Peter Yakovchuk   Tempe, AZ
So are you supposed to climb directly up the bolt line after a big ledge? It seems pretty obvious to use crack on the left, and climbing is very enjoyable. Nov 18, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Really an amazing climb, in my opinion. Very engaging crux after the jug on the roof. After that, enjoy a huge rest followed by another .11 crux to the top. Jan 14, 2014
There is wasp nest in a mono pocket 2 ft. left of the last bolt. You don't have to use the pocket, but then you do have to use the edge next to it and cover the pocket with your head.

There were a couple flying around my head, but they behaved. Jul 19, 2015
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Got on it because of the beautiful layback start, but that was merely approach climbing for the dynamic headwall. Dynos galore for an average to short climber. You'd think the no hands ledge would detract from the quality, but you really need that sucker after the crux. Jan 22, 2017