Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,284 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Feb 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

Start 10 feet right of Gabby up an obvious, left-angling crack/slab. The crack get a little steeper up at the top. It crosses Gabby and shares 2 of its bolts at the mid point, and this is the crux, too. Knapp's book calls it 5.10c, but the photo here on MP states it is 5.9. It is more like 10c than it is 5.9.

Location

It is 10 feet right of Gabby and left of Muscle Beach.

Protection

12 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
This route deserves more attention and stars. I thought it was better than Axis of Evil, by way of example. Awkward crux, but nice. This line is a good combo of jamming and holds. Dec 30, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.10c
Really enjoyed this line!

Side question: Anyone know what the route directly to the RIGHT is? It follows the crack system up the wall, but I can't seem to find the route information anywhere. Feb 14, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
Very fun climb! Awkward off-balance crux with a nice sense of accomplishment. Great finger locks! Dec 28, 2011
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Just heads up. The ENTIRE headwall is one HUGE, detached flake system. The anchors for this route are also placed in a large, detached block. The stuff seemed okay when banging on it while climbing, but it was still enough to make me not want to climb here again. It would be great if the anchor could be moved down to the main face just left of the crack onto solid rock. Feb 4, 2013
Leo L.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Leo L.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
This route was a fantastic way to end the trip to Shelf. Fun crack system and crimps all the way up moving to the left ever so slightly the whole way. Apr 10, 2013
Chet Butterworth
Chattanooga
Chet Butterworth   Chattanooga
I'm hoping the "awkward off-balance crux" was pulling the funky bulge mid(ish)way up where I ate it. Fun climb! and a humbling moderate. Jan 8, 2015
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.11a
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.11a
A nice route with solid crack climbing technique required. It was definitely harder than the grade of 10c for me. The "awkward crux" of the route felt more like 11- than 10 to me, which would make sense, since the neighboring 11a "Gabby" apparently crosses this line and shares this section. I tried the crux a few different ways but was only able to make it by cranking on a sharp edge and fingertips crack to a very awkward deadpoint to the ledge. It is possible that being taller (I'm 5'9") allows you to reach through this crux and drops the grade, but I don't see it being much easier especially with bigger fingers that a taller guy would have. The rest of this route is in the mid-10 range, and I really liked the lieback moves up the crack past the last three bolts. It's a tall route, but I remember there being about 8 to 10 bolts to the anchor, not 12 as stated above unless I missed them. May 26, 2015
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.10d
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.10d
This one is really good! Clean falls at the really hard crux. Apr 15, 2018