Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: John Musso, Rick Thompson, 2001
Page Views: 4,806 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kenneth Noisewater on Mar 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


234 Opinions

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Description

This is a new route in between Fantasia and Pick Pocket (aka Man-tasia). Start on a giant, leaning flake and climb up a crack system, then move right on to face sequences. There is a great no-hands rest halfway.

It allows setup of TR for Pick Pocket.

Location

This is left and above Pick Pocket.

Protection

11 bolts.

Photos

Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
The new guidebook says "spicy, yet well protected" up top. There wasn't anything spicy about it, but it was very good. Of the 6 5.10s we did in the area, this was the consensus best. Oct 15, 2007
Aeon Aki

  5.10+
Aeon Aki    
  5.10+
This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be careful! Mar 14, 2010
LmsCo
  5.10c
LmsCo  
  5.10c
Did a chunk come off of this route just below the anchors, to the right? Looks like there's something missing up there, and sure felt like it, too. Doesn't look like it was the block Aeon mentioned, but does look like a recent rockfall. Oct 18, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b
Full ton of fun, though I give it a 10b--felt at least a grade easier, less committing, than Blackman's just around the corner. (Though I went far left, where the chalk runs, at the anchors. Did I cheat?)

Still, a wild ride--definitely worth doin'.... Oct 25, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Great route. Pumpy. Excellent movement. Nov 30, 2011