Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,527 total · 14/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 13, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Listed at 12b/c in the Sharpend guide, this line is far easier. Considering the FFA was done on gear, with a huge runout through the crux, perhaps the inflated grade is understandable. In any case, this is a high quality line with great stone and some nice pockets.

Begin with an easy scramble to a nice slab. Cruise the slab to the break, where the angle steepens. Follow the dihedral to another break, and a monolithic wall of dark stone. Sharper pockets and crimps surmount the imposing headwall.

EDIT: note that the grade of this route was originally reported as 12a, under the name "Mark & Mark Route", and was published in Van Horn's 1999 guide as "11d or 12a".

Location

It is at the far left end of Cactus, ascending the middle of three bolt lines on the inset panel right of the "Jumpin' the Gun" arete.

Protection

9 brown Fixe bolts to 2BA.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Excellent route with fun climbing. Cool crux bulge where the main difficulty is narrowing down the options. I'm surprised the loose flake is still there, in the lower section. Kind of spooky and hard to avoid. Apr 29, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
The original line was rated .11d/12a, but it traversed right below the crux. I retrobolted this line in Fall 2002 with the direct finish. The line now takes is harder than the original. I disagree it's only .12a. It seemed like solid .12b, and I redpointed it twice. I got the opinion of several climbers around 2003, who thought it was .12b. It seemed much harder than Eutopia at the Vault, Freeform, or The Gym ArĂȘte. It is definitely not as pumpy as Heavy Weather, but the crux moves are considerably harder. It has been quite a few years since I climbed it. The flake did concern me, but I did not think it was loose at the time, rather just an expanding flake. If it moves, perhaps it should be removed. It should also be noted that the route has 9 protection bolts. Nov 20, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
A very good route as I found it to be as good as some 3 star classics. I'm learning that the star rating system at Shelf seems to be very subjective. I just keep running into more and more 2 star routes that are better than the 3 star classics I have already done.... Jan 31, 2016
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
The block moves a lot now and seems really dangerous. I strongly recommend it be removed before anyone climbs on this. Besides that... this is an awesome climb 18 hours ago