Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,273 total · 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Though this line follows the gradually widening 5" crack left of Super Suka, the name is a misnomer. There is really no "offwidthin'" to be had, awesome or otherwise. Most sane individuals will use some combination of stemming, liebacking and face climbing, with only a short section of easy (5.8?) chimneying just below the anchor. As such, this climb is a lot more enjoyable than it looks. The crux comes when the left wall of the dihedral steepens to overhanging, and the liebacking becomes more strenuous. There is a good amount of teetering choss in this corner, so have the belayer stand out of the way, and be aware.

Location

The large dihedral crack left of Super Suka, about 30 yards left of Muscle Beach.

Protection

I suppose you could lead this with an arsenal of large cams. Another option is to TR this from the anchor of "Axis of Evil."

Photos

mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10b
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10b
I was going for the face climb to the right when I realized that there were a couple of holds with big Xs over them. I then squeezed into the offwidth and continued to reach over and clip the bolts on the face. Nov 22, 2010
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10- R
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10- R
Gear: 1-2 #5 Camalots, 2-3 #6 Camalots, BigBros, and a small selection of finger-sized pieces/nuts for small cracks you encounter once you reach the mid-mark and the chimney up high. The largest piece I took up was a #4 Camalot, and at no point could I use it.... Beware of loose blocks between 1/2 and 3/4 of the way up the climb. Surprisingly fun but a scary lead without REALLY big gear. Jan 9, 2011
Daniel Bateman
  5.10- PG13
Daniel Bateman  
  5.10- PG13
Despite the name, the offwidth isn't that awesome, but it's a welcome break from pocket pulling with a pretty fun squeeze at the top. A #5 and a #6 C4 will get you about a third of the way up, after the chockstone a blue Big Bro would work, and gold Big Bros for the squeeze, or just reach and clip the bolts, bring some medium pieces between the OW and squeeze. Apr 4, 2017