Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown, mid-'80s
Page Views: 2,210 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


210 Opinions

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Description

This route is located at the far west end (left side) of Cactus Cliff on the face just left of Crynoid Corner. It is listed as the first route in the Thompson guide, but Spray Lord is a new route just left of Slicer. Once a scary lead, Slicer has been retrobolted and can be led using only bolts.

I would divide this route into two distinct sections with the first being much better than the second. The route starts with a small roof that you kind of have to thug over, probably easier for taller people. Many variations here depending on if you are on TR or lead, height, preference of holds, etc. Gain the face and climb fairly fun rock to a large ledge. Continue up the center of the second face to the anchors. The second section of climbing seemed to be way easier than the first.

It is possible to TR this route after climbing Crynoid Corner.

Protection

7 bolts to an anchor.

Photos

Rich Kelly
Boulder
 
Rich Kelly   Boulder
 
Seems this climb has been rebolted and now sports 7-8 bolts making it a safe climb. The crux is pulling up to a stance above the initial overhang. There is another spot at the top of the initial wall that makes one pause. It looked like one could go up either right or left. There is a good hidden hold on the edge if one goes left. Sep 21, 2005
If the name didn't give it away, this is very sharp. Jan 7, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Getting to first bolt not as bad as it looks from below. Jan 27, 2008
Watch out for big, unstable rock about halfway up the route, to the climber's right. Jun 8, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun route but definitely height-dependent crux. My 6' friend pulled up under the roof and grabbed the key hold up high. I had to do a much more serious intermediate move to gain the same hold. There's a second crux up high that is also height-dependent but easy to circumvent. In fact, I think going straight up on this upper section takes this climb past the .10s. Nov 10, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
5.10c
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
5.10c
The anchors are horrible on this route. I was terrified after top roping this route after my partner. They are so far apart. He used 20cm draws and they were pulled almost totally horizontal. I used double length runners to try and lessen the angle. If you plan on having someone TR this bring some longer runners to make it better angles. Feb 28, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I think this is rated 10a in the D'Antonio guide. It seemed really hard for 10a. Amazingly sharp up higher, including the horizontal surfaces of some big jugs. Mar 21, 2011
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
The opening crux over the roof is the only section worthy of the 10a rating the Thompson guidebook gives it. Lots of rests on ledges after the intital push. I agree with mtnmicah83... bring some long runners if you're going to top rope. I used 60cm slings to build an anchor for TR. Jul 18, 2011
Igoreka  
Just ascended this climb, and the top left anchor is loose in the rock. After setting up a top rope and rappelling down, my weight (180 lbs) makes the bolt of the anchor wobble in the rock about 2-3mm.

Def. do not recommend using this climb for top roping or climbing it till the anchor is replaced; however, the right top anchor is solid.

Jun 29, 2014
JFM
 
JFM  
 
It's possible to start on the route to the left and traverse in to the second bolt of Slicer to skip the initial roof. This variant is still difficult but balancy rather than thuggy. Nov 30, 2014
Aidan Goldie
  5.10b/c
Aidan Goldie  
  5.10b/c
A hard start. Watch out for big blocks about 1/3 up the route. Feb 14, 2016
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
  5.10b
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
  5.10b
Excellent route! The starting feet are getting pretty polished, but it has still very enjoyable climbing even after pulling the crux start. One of the better 5.10- routes at Shelf in my opinion.

That anchor is kind of whack though, wouldn't recommend toproping it unless you bring some slings / cordalette for the TR anchor. Oct 2, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Another Shelf route bolted to the top of the cliff even though the real climbing stops at bolt 3/4. Weird bolting and anchors all for a lousy boulder problem down low. Save time, skin, and effort by warming up on the vault toilet on your hike in instead. Jun 18, 2018