Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 839 total · 9/month
Shared By: pat thompson on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.

I cleaned some scary loose rock out of the chimney, and I also cleaned a lot of dirt and rubble out of the obvious, sweet hand crack just right of the chimney. Enjoy the clean handcrack!!!! Too bad it is not wayyyy longer. I placed two # 1 Camalots to get to the now clean ledge.

Start # 2 climbs up the bulgy face around the corner and to the right of the previous start. This start climbs past 1 bolt, then a good medium TCU placement, then another bolt to the obvious ledge. Once on the ledge, one can make the route way harder and even more contrived and climb left of the bolts that lead up the clean face past the overlap and to the anchor on the ledge 5.?. Being the weak man that I am, I climbed to the chimney clipping the first bolt on the left. I then placed two RPs in the bomber flake and then moved left onto the awesome steep face past the overlap and on sweet jugs to the ledge and the chain anchor on the left. One can also bail out right to the anchor for "Half and Half 2".

Location

Page 85 Hellraiser, topo p.84 Haas and Schneider. This next route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge, bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.

Protection

Both starts/routes are mixed. Use bolts and gear to a #1 Camalot.

Eds. there are 6 bolts & anchor bolts to the left of the last bolt.

Photos

Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
Hey, got on this route, I believe, still has quite a bit of of loose rock and a little sketchy rock, nice bolts. WOW! Those are some beefy chains at the finish. Mar 27, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
The upper face has four bolts and the start has two, for a total of six bolts. Dec 29, 2012