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Routes in Overhang Area

2 Ways 2 Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beer Barrel Buttress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Pong T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chicken Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Corniche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack/Bulge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Half and Half 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handle This Hard On! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellbound II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hellraiser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hippy School T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Between the Lines S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Intuition S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural Fact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack 'o Bobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Routefinding 101 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Serious Play T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sidelines S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Me A Beer S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toast & Jam? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tora, Tora, Tora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toura Handle T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Toura Obscura S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War With A Rack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Line? T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholly Holey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.

Getting There

Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.

L->R:

A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.

I1. What Line?, 10-, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
I2. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
SR. Toura Handle, 9- PG-13, 1p, 70', TR or bolts & gear.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
U. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X. Hell Raiser, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
Y. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Z. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
BB. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
CC. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
DD. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
EE. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
FF. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
GG. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
HH. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
II. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
JJ. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
KK. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
LLKK. Crack To Face, 8, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Overhang Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corniche
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Line
Sport, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Beer Pong
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippy School
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sidelines
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The Ground Doesn't Lie
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tora, Tora, Tora
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Peery Take A Bow
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle This Hard On!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Dance
Sport
Corniche 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Off Line 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Beer Pong 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Hippy School 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Sidelines 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Mr. Coors Contributes to th… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Ground Doesn't Lie 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Fabulous Flying Carrs R… 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Tora, Tora, Tora 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Mr. Peery Take A Bow 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Handle This Hard On! 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Chicken Dance 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Overhang Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help. Aug 19, 2010
Mike Howard    
Ken,

I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.

Thanks again,

Mike

Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike Dec 10, 2007
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.

Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:

1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.

3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77. Dec 10, 2007
There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. The crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline. Aug 14, 2006
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8. Apr 19, 2005
Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the Overhang Area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth, but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is, I would love the info. Thanks. Apr 18, 2005

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