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Routes in Overhang Area

2 Ways 2 Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beer Barrel Buttress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Pong T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chicken Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Corniche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack/Bulge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Half and Half 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handle This Hard On! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellbound II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hellraiser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hippy School T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Between the Lines S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Intuition S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural Fact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack 'o Bobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Routefinding 101 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Serious Play T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sidelines S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Me A Beer S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toast & Jam? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tora, Tora, Tora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toura Handle T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Toura Obscura S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War With A Rack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Line? T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholly Holey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 806 total, 11/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on Dec 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Location

Begin 10 feet left of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck in a right-facing dihedral just left of the bolt line on the prow. The start of the route is below a three-tiered overhang, and the right-facing dihedral leads to the left side of the overhang.

Description

Start in the right-facing dihedral with the crux between the second and third bolts. This has stemming and face climbing.

Where the dihedral meets the overhang, step across to the face right above the overhang and follow several bolts to the chains.

Protection

7 bolts, the first bolts are to the right on the prow and reachy to clip while in the dihedral.

Photos

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Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
Clipping the first bolt can be a bit insecure with a nasty landing area below. Sans stick-clip, a comforting option is ascend to the right, make the clip, then go across to the normal route left of the bolt line. Nov 27, 2013