Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,838 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

15 feet left of the ever popular, This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim (5.9), is a small, discontinuous arete below a south-facing head wall. This is Smear Me A Beer and is another very worthy problem that sees far too little traffic for such a nice line. Solve the arete for 5.11b, this comes at you right away, and get established on the top of the arete. Climbing switches gears immediately. A nice entry move gains the face above for 25 feet of nice 5.10 edge climbing. Smear is another fine addition to the NTM stockpile for which I have been unable to locate any FA data. I thought this was a more interesting problem than many more popular climbs of its grade.

Protection

6 quickdraws and a rope.

Photos

Derek Lawrence   Bailey
If you can't figure out the crux move (like me) a nice variation can be had by climbing the chimney to the left past the first bolt or so and then move right to finish the arete and upper face. This makes the climb doable at 5.10. Sep 18, 2001
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
The guidebook calls the chimney variation 5.9, though it felt more like 5.8. The upper arete felt more like 9+/10a. One can always TR the 11b starting moves after leading the easier version. I agree with Richard re the quality of the route. Aug 3, 2003
Dave Meyers
Evergreen, CO
Dave Meyers   Evergreen, CO
You would have to skip a lot of good holds to make this .11b.
.10+ in my opinion. Jan 2, 2010
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
The chimney option felt about the same grade as Hellbound II to the right, and the top arete had a couple of .10a/b moves on it. Bottom arete is the crux for 3 bolts if you don't use the left crack / chimney or the right ledge. Nov 24, 2018