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Routes in Overhang Area

2 Ways 2 Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beer Barrel Buttress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Pong T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chicken Dance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Corniche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack/Bulge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Half and Half 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handle This Hard On! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellbound II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hellraiser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hippy School T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Between the Lines S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Intuition S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural Fact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack 'o Bobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Routefinding 101 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Serious Play T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sidelines S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Me A Beer S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toast & Jam? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tora, Tora, Tora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toura Handle T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Toura Obscura S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War With A Rack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Line? T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholly Holey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: http://www.srcfc.org
Page Views: 4,991 total, 28/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is easy to find: hike up the main trail until you hit the cliff. You're now standing at the base of the route. Look for a line of bolts up a featured prow with a roof at the bottom, just right of the bolted pair of routes "Sloping Forehead" and "Ivory Tower". The crux is pulling the bulge at bolt #2 - a power move on good holds to a jug. The rest of the pitch is quite steep on a ladder of buckets. If the crux is problematic, it is easily bypassed on the right. Thank God for his many blessings as you enjoy this route.

Protection

Six bolts, two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
The holds to get over the crux bulge are slick and polished. If you're tall, you can reach past, but at 5'7 I couldn't. Those moves were much harder than 5.8 for me, so I bypassed in the short chimney to the right. Apr 17, 2017
Grey Satterfield
Broomfield
 
Grey Satterfield   Broomfield
 
There's a loose rock in the right hand side crack about halfway up the line. It has some chalk on it trying to spell out "NO", but it's not very distinct. Be careful! Aug 5, 2015
Ryan Flynn
Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Ryan Flynn   Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Climbed this today (10.14.10) and found a loose bolt if anyone has the time to tighten, would be appreciated. I believe it was the fourth bolt. Oct 15, 2010
David Appelhans is correct. This is a 'new' climb AND the pictures focus on Pack O' Bobs [Eds. now corrected]. The climb is immediately to the right of Pack O' Bobs. The TR line (running to the belayer) in the main photo for this page comes down Wholly Holey. The climber is going up Pack O' Bobs. Jun 21, 2009
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I thought the reach for the "good jug" over the roof was rather tough. I kind of did it a bit recklessly based on the description looking for a jug and pumped myself out. I found it to be a long reach, and I would say as hard as some of the 5.9/5.10a roofs in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps it is easier for taller climbers, but I had to use a marginal hold before I could reach the jug. The rest of the route isn't particularly interesting or difficult. A one move wonder. Sep 13, 2008
David Appelhans
Medford, MA
  5.7+
David Appelhans   Medford, MA
  5.7+
The route described is indeed a new route (at least it was not included in Hubbel's latest guidebook). However, the pictures linked to the route are actually pictures of Pack o' Bobs [Eds. now corrected], an old route just to the left of Wholly Holey. Apr 1, 2008
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
I believe this is a newer climb that wasn't printed in Peter Hubbel's "Golden Cliffs" guide. I hear there will be updated guidebook coming this spring. The [second] bolt over the bulge is the crux; the rest of the climb has good holds, and feet.

I noticed that the hangers on the anchors are a little bit loose. One of the other photos on this page shows that they have the top-rope setup with the anchors backed up. I am not sure what their motivation was, but maybe somebody who knows about bolt safety should take a look. Nov 24, 2007
Matt Chan
Boulder
 
Matt Chan   Boulder
 
Agreed... I did this route a few years back. I thought it was pretty poor back then, but now that I know the name - it's garbage. Keep the crusade to the church. Apr 29, 2006
Is this a new line? I always knew this as an unnamed 5.7. Climbed this for the first time in '97. Nov 10, 2004
I'm confused about a few of the "new Routes" you have posted. I have climbed them like everyone else in the world under different names for a long long time! What's up with that? Oct 27, 2004