Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: http://www.srcfc.org
Page Views: 5,402 total · 28/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Apr 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route is easy to find: hike up the main trail until you hit the cliff. You're now standing at the base of the route. Look for a line of bolts up a featured prow with a roof at the bottom, just right of the bolted pair of routes "Sloping Forehead" and "Ivory Tower". The crux is pulling the bulge at bolt #2 - a power move on good holds to a jug. The rest of the pitch is quite steep on a ladder of buckets. If the crux is problematic, it is easily bypassed on the right. Thank God for his many blessings as you enjoy this route.

Protection

Six bolts, two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

I'm confused about a few of the "new Routes" you have posted. I have climbed them like everyone else in the world under different names for a long long time! What's up with that? Oct 27, 2004
Is this a new line? I always knew this as an unnamed 5.7. Climbed this for the first time in '97. Nov 10, 2004
Matt Chan
Denver
 
Matt Chan   Denver
 
Agreed... I did this route a few years back. I thought it was pretty poor back then, but now that I know the name - it's garbage. Keep the crusade to the church. Apr 29, 2006
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
I believe this is a newer climb that wasn't printed in Peter Hubbel's "Golden Cliffs" guide. I hear there will be updated guidebook coming this spring. The [second] bolt over the bulge is the crux; the rest of the climb has good holds, and feet.

I noticed that the hangers on the anchors are a little bit loose. One of the other photos on this page shows that they have the top-rope setup with the anchors backed up. I am not sure what their motivation was, but maybe somebody who knows about bolt safety should take a look. Nov 24, 2007
David Appelhans
Broomfield, CO
  5.7+
David Appelhans   Broomfield, CO
  5.7+
The route described is indeed a new route (at least it was not included in Hubbel's latest guidebook). However, the pictures linked to the route are actually pictures of Pack o' Bobs [Eds. now corrected], an old route just to the left of Wholly Holey. Apr 1, 2008
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I thought the reach for the "good jug" over the roof was rather tough. I kind of did it a bit recklessly based on the description looking for a jug and pumped myself out. I found it to be a long reach, and I would say as hard as some of the 5.9/5.10a roofs in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps it is easier for taller climbers, but I had to use a marginal hold before I could reach the jug. The rest of the route isn't particularly interesting or difficult. A one move wonder. Sep 13, 2008
David Appelhans is correct. This is a 'new' climb AND the pictures focus on Pack O' Bobs [Eds. now corrected]. The climb is immediately to the right of Pack O' Bobs. The TR line (running to the belayer) in the main photo for this page comes down Wholly Holey. The climber is going up Pack O' Bobs. Jun 21, 2009
Ryan Flynn
Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Ryan Flynn   Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Climbed this today (10.14.10) and found a loose bolt if anyone has the time to tighten, would be appreciated. I believe it was the fourth bolt. Oct 15, 2010
Grey Satterfield
Broomfield
 
Grey Satterfield   Broomfield
 
There's a loose rock in the right hand side crack about halfway up the line. It has some chalk on it trying to spell out "NO", but it's not very distinct. Be careful! Aug 5, 2015
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
The holds to get over the crux bulge are slick and polished. If you're tall, you can reach past, but at 5'7 I couldn't. Those moves were much harder than 5.8 for me, so I bypassed in the short chimney to the right. Apr 17, 2017
I left a pair of Tenaya Iatis size 42 held together with a green carabiner. PM me, and you will be rewarded for their return. Feb 27, 2018
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
All of the bolts were replaced on this during the BCC volunteer day. The hardware for this rote was supplied by the ASCA. Oct 14, 2018