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Routes in Overhang Area

2 Ways 2 Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beer Barrel Buttress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Pong T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chicken Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Corniche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack to Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack/Bulge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Half and Half 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handle This Hard On! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hellbound II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hellraiser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hippy School T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Between the Lines S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Intuition S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Natural Fact T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack 'o Bobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Routefinding 101 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Serious Play T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sidelines S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smear Me A Beer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toast & Jam? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Rope Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tora, Tora, Tora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Toura Handle T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Toura Obscura S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War With A Rack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Line? T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholly Holey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 741 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Feb 1, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description [Edit]

This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide. The crux is the hand and fist crack. Some holds to the left on Chicken Dance help in the crux region. It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly. Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Double #3s for the squeamish. Use the Chicken Dance anchor to the left to get down.

Location [Edit]

This is the crack immediately to the right of Chicken Dance. The crack starts in a left-facing dihedral. The business starts from a nice ledge about 20' up. Here a hand and fist crack is set deep into the corner. It widens to a chimney above. Descend from the hooks on Chicken Dance.

Photos

Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.9
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.9
I highly suggest climbing the twenty foot thin hands crack as the approach to the wider section, and then try not to use the face holds to add a little thrutch :) Dec 10, 2016

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