Type: Sport
FA: Unknown!
Page Views: 2,224 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

30 feet right of Ken Trout's route, Mr Squirrel Places a Nut, is a blunt arete flanked by two unappealing trad corners. The arete is Handle This Hard On - and a much beter route than the name would suggest. For a moderate 5.12, Handle is good problem because it delivers the crux right at the first bolt and backs off from there. The route will keep your attention, however, right to the end since it has several additional 5.11 cruxes on the way. The biggest challenge of Handle This seems to be in resisting the urge to dodge left, off the arete, to sneak back for the second clip. For working out the solution this is not bad dodge since it will set up a top rope for the crux. The real point seems to be in staying put on the little nothings for hands and feet until just above the second clip where a nice horrizontal jug awaits. I thought this was a very tricky and technical problem that was well worth sussing out the beta. I have not been able to locate any FA data for this line, which is unfortunate because it is one of the better routes on NTM.

Location

This is a blunt arete 30 feet right of Ken Trout's route, Mr Squirrel Places a Nut.

Protection

Quickdraws and a rope.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12a
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12a
This route is missing the hanger on the first bolt. Mar 7, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12a
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.12a
The bolt has been replaced. Feb 10, 2007
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Not Alan's. He and I climbed it years ago and did not know the FA team at the time - still don't. (Dave Bingham???) Jun 3, 2008
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
 
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
 
Thin!, follow the bolts.
Fun pulls to the top. Mar 14, 2010
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Pretty good route for NTM. Probably 12a or so if you don't sneak out left. Upper section is 5.fun. Whole routes seemed pretty well bolted. Not much chalk on it, surprised it doesn't see more action. Oct 9, 2013