Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Mike Cichon
Page Views: 302 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 14, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a challenging route that would be serious to lead. Leave it to Mike Cichon to awe us mortals with faith in sticky rubber and tiny RPs. Most will do this as a TR to preserve one's ankles.

Start with the tight hands crack to the right of Hellraiser. Gain the ledge at half height. Fiddle in a good RP or maybe two, but you can now clip the bolt on 2 Ways to Hell to make it less hazardous. Two barndoor moves to gain the crack sidepulls with your left hand and a deadpoint to just below the roof gets you more stable. Another left hand slap above the roof and a high step gets you to the finger crack lieback and the top.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with very thin chains.

FWIW, I think this name is similar to Steve Dieckhoff's book.

Location

This is the first route right of the offwidth of Hellraiser.

Protection

A rack to a #1 Camalot including RPs or more sanely a TR with long slings off the 2 bolt anchor above.

Photos

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