Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Chip Chace and Pat Adams, March 1990
Page Views: 4,353 total · 20/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route is about 40 yards west of Deck Chairs on the Titanic. Look for the strange and obvious bird hole in the middle of a clean face. Start up the left edge of said clean face, then follow the bolts up and to the right.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. TR access is only if someone climbs it, or it you set up an anchor up top and rappel off.

There is a 2 bolt anchor ~10 feet higher with Mussy hooks.

Photos

If you're looking for your first 5.12 redpoint, this is definitely the route for it. It's only got maybe 2 moves of difficult climbing (extend the the draw on that last bolt if you have trouble clipping it) and would probably rate about 11b or c at old-school areas like Shelf. Probably my favorite climb at Table. Aug 16, 2001
piz
piz  
I agree, this was my first 5.12! piz : ) Dec 5, 2001
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.11d
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.11d
Incredibly soft, but a fun line, especially for Table Mountain where you can usually step out to a ledge for a no hands rest. Mar 7, 2006
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.11a/b
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.11a/b
Another sustained fifty feet of the headwall and this would be one of the best 5.11c's in the Front Range, maybe even as good as Lost Planet Airman or Taping Tendons. By comparison, many find "Bullet The Brown Cloud, .11a/b, at Brown Cloud" to be significantly more difficult. This route is definitely worth doing if you are already here or if you are looking to break into 5.11 errrr I mean 5.12. Oct 28, 2007
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.11
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.11
First ascent, March 1990, Chip Chace and Pat Adams.

I took advantage of some snowy "new-route weather" to find, clean, and bolt Mrs. Hen. I was using Guy Lords' drill. Guy named this route and several others we did, like Mr. Squirrel.

Another weekend, the sun finally came out, and we arrived just in time to watch Chip flash the route. They hesitated to give a number grade, perhaps sensing that I'd be disappointed. I got it the same day too, thinking not quite a twelve but very attractive.

Having Pat and Chip do the FA was cool, they are amazing climbers. Another outstanding climber, Mike Cichon, just led Mrs. Hen on gear this spring, 2009. Nov 28, 2007
Peteoria Holben
5.11c/d
Peteoria Holben  
5.11c/d
This is a typical "clipping crux" route. The moves aren't hard until you stop mid-crux to clip!

5.12 if you're hanging the quick draws....

5.11 if you skip the crux bolt or already have the draws hung.... Aug 30, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11
If you all are referring to the clip in the middle of the headwall, it's dead easy from the good crimp out left near the arete. No reason to clip it from the bad slot in the crack. 11c/d hanging the draws. 11b/c with them already hung. Interesting movement the entire way. Bullet the Brown Cloud is less sustained, although the crux move is much harder at about 11+. 11a/b for BTBC is way off the mark. Feb 20, 2015
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
I gave 4 stars for the area, not the entire world (and maybe to counteract some of the less positive ratings, which are surprising to me), but I think it would be considered good to very good even at higher quality areas. Dec 16, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Original rating was 5.11d/12a. I've got to say, I've have always felt that this climb is hard as almost any Front Range .12a. I find Wet Dream or Power Trip in Clear Creek to be easier than Mrs. Hen. Ken Trout used to have this route super wired. Knowing his beta definitely helps. Otherwise, it's easy to do much harder sequences. Feb 7, 2019