Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare & Moe Hershoff, 1999. Of "Mr. Rooster Struts His Stuff": Mark Rolofson, Keith Ainsworth, & Ken Trout, 3/6/02
Page Views: 2,629 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Early in 2002 or late in 2001 Dan Hare added a fine new line immediately to the right of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck. This route starts out in the seam and either slips left to the large hole or picks off a move or two on the right. Chase the slippery seam/crack to a good rest at 20 feet. In principle, a very thin (!) sequence follows with a good jug just out of reach. In February, Pat Burwick flashed the route using these tiny holds; however, there is a good hand to be found to the right and almost in the chimney and this hold could knock off some of the thin crimps. A large wing span will gain the jug from this edge. While this is a good route on solid stone, it will probably be done most often using a stem into the adjacent chimney for the first half of the route. Nontheless, it's clear that Dan's intent was to run the crack.

Protection

Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchors exist at the top of Mrs. Hen and ten feet higher where a second double bolt anchor has been placed.

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.12a
3-16-08, Mark Rolofson told me Dan Hare called this route Chicken Dance. And the new Table Guide by Ben and Josh reminds me that Mo Hershoff did the FA with Dan. Dec 21, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
I thought Hen was more pure, due to the fact that there's no stem possible. Plus, the crux is more sustained.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed the thin move after the jug rest and topped out the same. Jan 28, 2008
Bob Rotert
  5.11+
Bob Rotert  
  5.11+
Seems like to make the "best" of the climbing at Table Mtn some times you have to climb a little contrived and ignore the easier way. I thought this was a really cool route. I like the variety this has with some jamming and the pumpy nature of the climb. The "sporting" way to do this route is to run this straight up the crack to the bird hole, not using the stems on the bottom half. If you stem on the right wall or use holds in or near the chimney, sorry, that's gonna have to be a penalty. \;o) Good pumpy climbing, eliminating the stems, with the crux moving above the flat table hold at mid height & finishing up and left. I wouldn't put this route in the 12- category, 11d might even be a stretch, but the Bow, Mrs. Hen, and this route together on this wall are really good Table Mtn routes. Feb 5, 2010
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.11a/b
Using the stems down low felt more natural than the contrived path suggested here. Climbing this pitch using everything within easy reach weighs in at about 11a/b, imo. I'd give it 3 stars, on gear, using the dihedral. Jan 24, 2015
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Certainly much easier than its neighbor to the left if you allow yourself to stem (probably 11b/c). One somewhat big move near the top but overall not super sustained. Good fun, though! Mar 21, 2016
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Anonymous Coward doesn't know his history very well. Dan Hare & Moe Hershoff established Chicken Dance in February 1999. In 2002, I added both a direct start & a finish to this climb. Dan Hare finished by traversing left to the 6th bolt of Mrs. Hen ... (which was the location of its original anchor). Dan added a third bolt here with a chain here, since the original Mrs. Hen anchor was open cold shuts. I replaced this set up in 2002, moving the Mrs. Hen anchor up 6 feet to where you can end that climb on a nice ledge on the left. The right anchor bolt also served as a final protection bolt for our finish. Thus, I renamed the climb "Mr. Rooster Struts His Stuff". First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Keith Ainsworth & Ken Trout on March 6, 2002 (see Golden Rock Climbs for reference). To my knowledge, the climb Chicken Dance originally started up the easy corner on the right to reach a high first bolt (now 2nd bolt). The direct line (that is now followed) lunges out left to a big pothole, past the 1st bolt, then reaches back right into hard crack moves leading up past 2nd bolt (the first crux). The technical crux is at the 5th bolt with tiny holds & a high step onto the shelf. Stemming off route right to the ledge is cheating & takes the pump out of the climb. Another bulging crux past 6th bolt lunges to the horizontal break. A final hard move past 7th bolt gains easy ground leading to the top. Lots of great moves. One of my favorites on the mountain.

It's interesting that this route was posted by anonymous coward, on the same day we redpointed this route. AC & Pat must have climbed this route right after I added the 1st bolt & the new top anchor but before we returned to redpoint it. So it's possible, Pat Burwick got the First Free Ascent of the complete line. It's too bad AC didn't have the spine to list his real name, so his story can be verified.

I am pretty certain that Dan & Moe didn't do the direct start with the 2nd bolt preclipped, because the bottom of the seam was quite rotten & dirty. No holds were chalked until well above the 2nd bolt. What is for certain is that Dan & Moe avoided the last hard move at the 7th bolt because Chicken Dance traversed left on the horizontal break below this move to reach the original Mrs. Hen anchor. That is why I took the liberty of renaming it. The original finish was bogus! A rather lazy copout rather that complete the line to the top. Feb 6, 2019