Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,434 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jan 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


173 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This route is called "Ivory Tower" in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado."

It starts just right of the top of the approach trail, immediately right of "Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route", and just left of Alan Nelson's new route "Wholey Holy, Lord God Almighty."

Climb past an overhang with a hand crack on the right, and continue up the face to an anchor shared with "Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route."

A good beginner lead and an easy warm up.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

My second lead at the Cliffs. I found the overhang difficult to commit to and therefore wore out my arms early. The climbing eases up until 3rd to 4th bolt. I moved far right and put it pro therefore not clipping the 4th bolt. Easy if you are a solid 5.7 leader a little bit more spicy for a 5.6 leader. Jan 10, 2004
I actually thought that "Another Unamed Billy Bob Route", which goes at 5.7+ in the guidebook, was easier than this route. Pulling the overhang at the start of this one can feel insecure unless you find the nice bomber hold inside the crack on the right. Alternatively, jam in the crack. Mar 19, 2006
Jimn Seiler
North Platte, NE
  5.8+
Jimn Seiler   North Platte, NE
  5.8+
I thought the crux was about 2/3rds of the way up and was not a 5.7. I don't know if I do the routes correctly up at Table or if the ratings are the most inconsistent I've ever seen. I climbed this with 3 others who also agreed that this was in the 5.8 range. I sent my girlfriend up this for her first sport lead and she got her money's worth. May 12, 2007
L G
Boulder, CO
L G   Boulder, CO
Very slippery. Can place a 0.4 C4 in the crack before standing up to clip the first bolt. Oct 22, 2007
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Like the previous poster, I placed a cam before the first bolt. Once I pulled the move it wasn't hard, but this rock is really polished. Compared to the Overhang area and climbs in Boulder Canyon, the polished rocks make this feel much harder. Sep 13, 2008
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.8
One more comment. The "beta" photo that goes along with this has the caption "# 7 in the photo"... BUT this phote appears for several climbs. Number 7 is the 5.9 "This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim". I actually did that first thinking it would be an easy 7 warm up and was a bit surprised at the stiff climbing for what I thought was 5.7 grade... however, this route wasn't substantially easier. I would say if the other one is a 5.9, this one is more like 5.8. Sep 13, 2008
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.8-
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.8-
Definitely felt harder than 5.7, not much harder, but still harder. Sep 16, 2008
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
  5.8
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
  5.8
5.7? yeah right! Hardest 5.7 I've ever climbed. Dec 29, 2008
Nicole G
Oceanside, CA
Nicole G   Oceanside, CA
I'm with everyone who thought that it was a hard 5.7. That first bolt is so hard to reach (especially if you aren't tall). A clip stick or a crashpad would be a good idea if you don't have any Cams to place before the first bolt, since the footing is a little sketchy in that area. There are much better 5.8s to climb in this area, particularly if you're relatively new to leading (they aren't so run out). Mar 7, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.8+
Harder than 7 for sure, also very polished. Apr 4, 2010
aaron davidson
Denver, Co
aaron davidson   Denver, Co
How do I get to this rock? I don't see any directions and I'm new to the area, looking for some good lead climbs. Apr 7, 2010
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.8
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.8
The holds have become very polished and the route is now a very pumpy 5.8. Aug 28, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.8+
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.8+
Very polished and definitely a harder 5.8 now. Fun route still worth the climb, just don't expect this to be as easy as any of the other 5.7s on the mesa. Jan 22, 2014
axelman Axelrod
Lafayette, CO
  5.8+ PG13
axelman Axelrod   Lafayette, CO
  5.8+ PG13
I agree, not what I would consider 5.7 - definitely 5.8. The crux is low, but there's another delicate move between the 3rd and 4th bolt. In my opinion, the last 2 bolts are improperly placed. The upper crux move is greasy and delicate. In my opinion, the spacing is off for the last 2 bolts. Mar 29, 2016
Jacob Williams
Fort Collins, CO
5.8+ PG13
Jacob Williams   Fort Collins, CO
5.8+ PG13
The phone app said this was a 5.7 for me (or maybe I misread it), so I gave it a shot. Glad to see online it's rating has increased. Very greasy and slippery even in perfect weather. My shoes slipping off the rock made me uncertain on lead, causing me to pause more, tiring my arms out. I'd call it a 5.8+ or even 5.9-. Safely clipping the first bolt was a reach for me (6'3"). I'd say for a shorter climber, have a spotter or crash pad for that first bolt. Aug 22, 2016
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
  5.7+
Caleb Gruber   Denver, CO
  5.7+
Yeah the first bolt is stretch, like most of the routes are at North Table, the rest of the route was pretty fun, I think difficult for a 5.7, but since it is one of the closest routes to the trail, it gets climbed a lot, and the holds have been greased up a bit for sure. Nice ledge at the top for new people to practice cleaning or rappelling. Jun 28, 2017
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This got re-bolted today.
Thanks to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Mar 19, 2018
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
5.8 seems fair for this polished climb. Felt harder than some of the higher graded climbs we did later the same day. Nov 24, 2018