Type: Trad
FA: Tod Anderson, 12/7/91
Page Views: 2,609 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors.

Protection

Bring some nuts and something like a #1 Camalot for the lower half; three draws for the upper half. 2 bolt lowering anchor.

Per Mark Roth: the left option has 6 bolts total, no gear is needed.

Photos

FA - December 7, 1991 (of course). This route was retrofitted in December 2007 to swap out the cold shuts and add 2 lower bolts. The route can be done without trad gear now. Jul 18, 2008
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Left option has 6 bolts total, no gear needed. Clipping hold for the last bolt is really creaky. Try not to break it.... Feb 1, 2010
DJ RYNO
chatfield lake ,co
 
DJ RYNO   chatfield lake ,co
 
Said hold is still really creaky. I pulled pretty hard on it. Mar 14, 2010
popes
Edgewater
 
popes   Edgewater
 
I got on this yesterday, climbed to the big ledge, and looked up at the face. It looked real desperate, so I went a few feet left and climbed two bulges on good ledges which got me about halfway up the face. A few feet below the second to last bolt, I traversed right and climbed up the face for a few moves on good edges.
Climbing the route this way seems 11a (maybe lighter).
The route description implies you climb straight up the face from the ledge. but that looks to be a good bit harder than 11b/c.
Anyone know details on this? Jan 20, 2013
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11b
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11b
First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic. Feb 8, 2013
If it's any consolation, the bolt hangers are probably spinning more easily because the new hangers are thinner than the original cold shuts. I think I added washers when I upgraded the hangers a few years back, but the hangers could spin more easily in that configuration. The Rawl 5-piece bolts are designed in a way that the hanger or equipment attached can vibrate or move without compromising the bolt itself. If the bolts themselves actually appeared to move, then that's a different story. May 25, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Upper headwall is really enjoyable. The clipping hold for the fifth bolt is a little above the bolt. Be careful, because a fall here could put you on the ledge. Dec 22, 2015
two chains
Fucken Zion
 
two chains   Fucken Zion
 
Best 11a at the Table!!!! Go for it!!! Jun 6, 2016
Keith W
  5.11b
Keith W  
  5.11b
Lower section is very enjoyable. The business is really fun! Only a few 5.11a/b moves and you are to the top. Bolts are not placed ideally. Great climb though. Nov 20, 2017