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Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jason Desmond
Page Views: 2,711 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jason Desmond on Nov 9, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb Stoic Calculus and continue up and right to a nice hand crack with good pockets, slightly overhung at the top. Though this route has been thoroughly cleaned small rocks may still come off until its been climbed more. Use caution as this is a popular area and there may be other groups below.

Protection

Seven more bolts to ring anchors. If you plan on being lowered to the ground from the upper anchors YOU WILL NEED A 70 METER ROPE. With a 60 meter rope you will need to lower back to the anchors of Stoic Calculus.
I am a crack whore so I was PSYCHED to see this. I climbed it from the ground up, super fun pitch and I highly recommend doing it as one long pitch. Crack is very clean, no choss. There are no offwidth moves unless you want to get crazy and make this way harder than necessary. 5.10a hand jamz. Jun 30, 2017
If you want to lead stoic calculus, then straight into emotional geometry, you will need 16 draws. Use only one at the chains of stoic calculus and you will have enough. Oct 25, 2016
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
+1 run this as one 35m pitch. So nice to do a long pitch in this canyon of short routes. And how often do you get to do a sport climb and finish on a fun hand/offwidth crack?! Warning, the crack is super sharp so prepare to lose some skin if you jam too deep into it. Mar 21, 2016
jeff p
Golden
  5.10a/b PG13
jeff p   Golden
  5.10a/b PG13
Very unique to have bolts on a nice crack, but I'm glad I got to jump on it. My partner and I used it as a good route to practice multi pitch, but it is definitely doable from the ground with a 70 meter rope and a crap ton of draws. Belay station at the first set of anchors is comfy and you can easy see/hear your climber. I did find some loose rocks in the crack but nothing I would say is cause for concern,,, just have your belayer wear a helmet. Mar 13, 2015
Matt Olson
Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Matt Olson   Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Great route! Definitely worth jumping on. Seems like there is only a small portion that requires actual crack climbing technique. I'm not a crack climber. Bolts are placed well and found no choss. There's a great knee-bar halfway up the crack that saved me. Oct 29, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.10d
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
5.10d
I'm not sure if something changed, but this route felt significantly harder than 10a or 10b to me. Possible something broke? I'm no crack climber, but the 11b/c around the corner felt a lot easier to me... Mar 25, 2014
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
  5.10b
Aaron Shields   Lehi, UT
  5.10b
May 2013 - pretty clean now, though the crack is still painfully rough. Good thing it's a short crack! Awesome natural continuation of stoic calculus, and not bad if your crack technique is good May 21, 2013
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
 
VERY CHOSSY. As mentioned, this route has some fun, interesting crack/layback movement that you dont find in AF very often. I'd rate this climb higher if it didn't have so much loose rock. Wear a helmet on belay if you have it. Jun 16, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10b/c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10b/c
The name for this is really good. The upper crack area is emotional and its an unusual crack feature for the area with its bizarre geometry. Off width crack with all kinds of different holds and body positioning. The trickiest part being the feet. Have fun but be careful, its still getting cleaned up. We had some rock fall doing it. Jun 1, 2011
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
Nice job, I've wanted to bolt that route for years. I can't wait to get on it. Dec 9, 2010