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Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Duane Anderton, Todd Draper
Page Views: 3,757 total · 26/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This is a steep, almost vertical climb that is mostly pockets and jugs.

The technical crux is probably getting to and clipping the first bolt; for me the harder part was clipping the chains because the pockets get smaller and scarcer and you have to climb a bit higher than you'd like in order to comfortably clip them.

There is an interesting, rounded, wooden "hold" just after and to the right of the second bolt: it is the remains of a shrub stem.

Location

This is the left-most of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Matthew Pecsok
provo, ut
  5.8 PG13
Matthew Pecsok   provo, ut
  5.8 PG13
worth doing once because of the cool wooden hold/stump. the crux is probably the start. as the info says clipping the chains is a bit nerve racking since the holds aren't quite where you want them. the grade seems pretty accurate. Jul 13, 2008
Chauncemaster
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Chauncemaster   Sandy, UT
  5.9
Getting to the first two bolts seems more like a 5.9 but it gets a bit easier higher up. wooden stump is definitely a welcome hold. Oct 8, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8 PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8 PG13
Careful on this route! I think a fall while trying to clip the second bolt could be serious. Also think its more like 5.9. Jun 7, 2010
Tim Moore
  5.9-
Tim Moore  
  5.9-
Getting to the first few bolts is definitely the hardest part of the route. Probably .9- moves. The rest is fairly straight forward with good pockets to be found throughout the entire route. A good warm up for the two routes to the right of it and a great belay spot. Thanks for whoever took the time to put those wooden holds in May 17, 2014
Kristopher Bartlett
Salt Lake City, Utah
Kristopher Bartlett   Salt Lake City, Utah
Agreed that a fall at the second bolt could be dangerous. In fact, there were a some guys up there in March telling me that their friend broke his ankle in that spot a few days prior. (He fell while clipping apparently.) I'm not one to choke the chicken that often, I'd rather take the whip usually, but after hearing their story I couldn't help it right there! The polished limestone feet aren't reassuring either, though this route's no where near as polished as some of the climbs around the corner. Apr 2, 2015
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
After a near ground-fall trying to get to the 2nd bolt, we ended up using a stick clip on the 2nd bolt. Also ended up heading way right and using the holds on the 10a to get past the 2nd bolt. Since both my partner and I had essentially fired the 10c to the right (on top rope), it was quite a surprise that we both flailed on the lower section of this route. Past bolt 2,it is good,consistent 5.8 climbing. Oct 27, 2015
Luke Werner
Salt Lake City
  5.9- PG13
Luke Werner   Salt Lake City
  5.9- PG13
Agreed the first two bolts on this require good footwork and have ground-fall potential. Really good to get focused, helped me with confidence to get to harder grades. Holds seem smaller than other routes at the grade in Hard Rock, making precision important. fun route. Apr 30, 2017

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