Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 5,020 total · 33/month
Shared By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


180 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Classic AF pockets with big moves for a bit, followed by briefly perplexing thinness.

After the thin bit it's pockets and footwork to the chains.

Location

Counting from the right-most line before the outside corner, this is the 4th route from the right. It's fairly easily recognized because of the tan, smooth-looking limestone midway up the route.

There is a second pitch (some do it in one) called the Juggernaut Roof and it goes at 5.12b/c.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Sometimes the anchors have fixed carabiners.

Photos

The rail is above the fourth bolt just below the fifth bolt. Awesome climb, fun moves. Jul 31, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
sweet face climbing on good pockets. It's a breeze until the funky traverse at the third bolt. The crux is a big reach for the vert rail and pulling/smearing to the ledge above it for the fifth clip. the crux move aside, i found this to be a much easier red-point than it's neighbor primal magic. Sep 29, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b
I found this one to be harder than suicide blonde. The route runs very smooth up to the crux just above the fourth bolt. Before the crux nothing feels harder than 10c, but try not to get out of sequence at the third draw. Once at the crux, you've got to fully extend to reach the pinch with your left hand. Try to get a high foot and then stand up. If you're having trouble with the crux section then you're missing some key holds. After that the route gets increasingly easier to the chains. May 31, 2009
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.11b
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.11b
This is extremely fun. The crux is perfect! The climb is juggy up until the crux. I let you figure it out. A must do!! Jul 26, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11b
This is a great climb and a must do for the grade. Not sure what to add other than this was very satisfying having worked on this climb off and on for a few years. I think the key is definitely the pinch and then not to forget your feet. Enjoy! Oct 20, 2009
anja
  5.11a
anja  
  5.11a
Love the start to this climb! Too bad it wasn't juggy pockets all the way up then it would be a 5 star climb. The crux move is kind of blah. Oct 22, 2010
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11a
a left heel hook into one of the high pockets seemed to unlock the crux for me... Apr 29, 2013