Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 3,513 total · 23/month
Shared By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

I haven't done this one yet. Juggernaut has an extension through the roof.

Location

Extension of Juggernaut

Protection

4-5 bolts and chains. You can belay either on the ground or in the middle of the pitch.

Photos

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sfotex
Sandy, UT
  5.12b
sfotex   Sandy, UT
  5.12b
Fixed draws except for the first one. This climb is FUN! Don't overlook it if you're in the area. Sep 18, 2011
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
When you try to belay from the ground, it really feels like there's to much rope drag to clip, even if you un clip the anchors after the first clip. I would recommend belaying from he top of juggernaut Jul 26, 2012
Kipp Schorr
5.12b
Kipp Schorr  
5.12b
^ This is horrendous beta Roy, just put a long sling on the anchors and you're in there. Great climbing, makes a classic route even better, no need to bring your bigwall tactics to AF. Apr 30, 2014
Leify Guy
  5.12b/c
Leify Guy  
  5.12b/c
Tried belaying from the anchor, never doing that again on an extension. Had a much better time clipping a sling at the chains and linking the roof as an extension. Nov 12, 2014
kalockwood
SLC, UT
 
kalockwood   SLC, UT
 
+1 to climbing as an extension. Rope drag isn't too bad. There is a nice long fixed draw on the first bolt.

As of 9/27/15, fixed draws are on all the bolts. The carabiner on the fourth or fifth bolt is getting pretty sharp and I would recommend bringing a new one to replace it. Also, one of the fixed carabiners on the anchor is very sharp and should be replaced (hopefully with steel). Sep 28, 2015
merto
 
merto  
 
V4-ish crux at the beginning of the roof, followed by big moves to awesome jugs. 12B Mar 14, 2016
Lotapowder
Sandy
 
Lotapowder   Sandy
 
This is an awesome roof route. There is a long sling on the first bolt and I had no rope drag on it. ALL draws are fixed. I thought the crux is at the 4th bolt and not the beginning of the roof. Save some juice to clip the chains... Oct 12, 2016