Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tim Egbert, Scott Unice
Page Views: 7,253 total, 49/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


211 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This route is located just right of Rockapella. Start and belay up on the higher ledges. This is a great route, sustained pulling on steep to slightly overhanging rock. Lots of good features. The start is a bit run out but very easy. make sure your belayer is attentive or there is a knot in the end of the rope if you are using anything less than a 60 meter rope. On the day I was there, someone was dropped 20 feet while being lowered. The rope went right through the belay device. It is difficult to hear from the top due to distance and typically windy conditions.

Protection

8 bolts to a two bolt/chain anchor

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Seems like this route should have a direct start. It's counterintuitive to climb the ramp/crack out left past two bolts and then traverse right on the face to get on the line. Just increases drag and doesn't add anything to the route. Mar 21, 2016
jeff p Pfeiffer
Golden
  5.10a
jeff p Pfeiffer   Golden
  5.10a
OK climb. Good holds and very straight forward. I just didn't think there was anything very special about it, especially compared to Winds of Fire just next door. Its fun though and worth the attempt if you looking for something in the grade. Mar 13, 2015
optikal Freeman
SLC, UT
 
optikal Freeman   SLC, UT
 
Had a great time! Jugs and pockets the whole way, sustained and a little overhung in spots; quite the pump on my first go! 60m rope was perfect for rappelling and TR, I extended the anchor for TR to avoid a bit of rope drag. Oct 26, 2013
Pixtonian
Salt lake city, Utah
 
Pixtonian   Salt lake city, Utah
 
Great route, I lead this last week after being out for a bit and not climbing. It was a challenge but one of the better routes I have climbed. Loved some of the top moves. Aug 7, 2013
Great climb! A 60 meter rope is perfect for this climb. Great views and holds. The first bolt is a little run out but very easy climbing minimizes risk. I would say the crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Fairly easy climbing from there to the double chain anchors. Highly recommend, have fun! Sep 3, 2011
ScowHound
  5.10a
ScowHound  
  5.10a
60 year old - been climbing about 5 years. Great, fun route --- juggy and positive holds, edges all the way up. Run-out to first bolt is very easy climbing. Jun 20, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun route with plenty of feet to use this as a warm up. I used a 60m rope, and it was plenty. Just make sure the belayer stands on the higher ledge and ties a knot in the end. Jun 16, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Does anyone have contact info for the FA party? Jun 7, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
If your "70m" barely had anything left lowering off from this route, then your rope is not 70 meters long. Sep 8, 2009
Caleb Bryce  
 
note the length of this one...I led it with a 70m rope and my belayer had just enough rope to lower me back to the ledge...even with the rope stretch...

KNOT THE ENDS OF THE ROPE if you're using anything less than 70m, and certainly for under 60m Sep 7, 2009
Chauncemaster
Sandy, UT
  5.10a
Chauncemaster   Sandy, UT
  5.10a
Fun face climb on good holds. The 5.10a difficulty comes from being sustained and a bit overhung in some spots. Eats up an entire 60m rope. Oct 7, 2008
Alec LaLonde
  5.10a
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a
Deceptively steep -- even a bit overhanging in places. Great pockets all the way, just keep cranking to the top! Jun 16, 2008
This is a pretty fun climb. It kind of zig-zags up the face a bit so look around to see where the next bolts are. The last bolt is probably the most fun section. Jun 15, 2008
Clay Allred
Moab UT
  5.10a
Clay Allred   Moab UT
  5.10a
I saw my wife climb this route the day we met. I knew she was the one. That's important beta because maybe it could happen to you :) May 15, 2008
Riddler
Centerville, UT
Riddler   Centerville, UT
This is a super fun route with great exposure and even better views. The book mentions that it is possible to do this route with a 50m rope by belaying from a ledge a little ways up, but this would be pretty uncomfortable and would require a downclimb. A 60m rope is perfect. Sep 24, 2006