Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,469 total · 19/month
Shared By: Paul Robertson on Sep 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

the approach to the roof might be a little technical, but i guess the crux was fist jamming the roof. great crack, coming over was quite easy. If you're doing it in 2 pitches, the first is a 5.6 and belay from the ledge.

Location

This route is located between Rockapella 5.8 and Blonde .10. Rappel from top anchors with a 70m rope.

Protection

the whole thing is bolted. Be mindful of your rope, need slings. If you're using pro, I used a 5' cam to protect the roof and some long slings to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack. Anchors at top.

Photos

SColemere  
 
I thought the route followed the crack from the bottom all the way up, didn't realize that the first pitch was bolted. Leading the first pitch crack was fun/easy. The gear was not the best, stoppers would be useful. The second pitch pulling the roof is a lot of fun, some very unique and interesting moves that you don't get anywhere else in AF. Hand size pieces and a #5 cam for the roof, and a .3 to protect the short runout to the chains. Oct 10, 2016