Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tom Caldwell and John Walter
Page Views: 522 total · 3/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

81 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


A pumpy, slightly overhanging, pocket- and jug-haul for the first two-thirds of the route, a thin crux, then pockets and jugs to the anchor chains.

From the ground, this route looks easier than the 5.9 (Vaporous Apparition) to its right. The climbing up to the fourth bolt is mostly big limestone pockets and jugs. However, the crux section between the fourth and fifth bolts lacks any pockets or jugs and the handholds are reduced to a couple of sharp crimps and polished pinches plus a couple of key sidepulls.


This is the left-most of the three routes on the southwest face of Hard Rock. The middle route with a small roof (Vaporous Apparition, 5.9) is immediately right of this route.


5 bolts to chain anchors.


Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Correct name and FA info added 12Jun07 per John Walter (was listed under Unknown 5.10b) Jun 12, 2007
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
pump factor will keep me chasing the redpoint on this one. the small fins/sidepulls at the crux were cool. Nov 6, 2007
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
i finally got the redpoint on this today. definitly a great route, it is sustained if your not looking for good rests, i think the consensus on this one is 10c. May 13, 2008
McRae Williams  
Fun route with a well defined crux. I really enjoyed the crux move off of the little polished sidepull. I definitely felt the pump on this one, be efficient on the easier moves approaching the crux about 3/4 quarters up the climb. A bit harder than 10b in my opinion, but an excellent route over all. May 13, 2008
Michael MacFadden  
Good route, seems a little harder than 10b at first glance. Balance and footwork is key for the crux. Jun 15, 2008
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
Aaron Shields   Lehi, UT
As long as your footwork is good at the crux, the route is a solid 5.10b. Milk the rest just over the third bolt and you're golden. Aug 8, 2013
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
Might have just blown the beta, but the crux felt harder than anything on Juggernaut around the corner (first day in AF though so I'm not sure exactly what grades look like here). Looks like a large (~6-8" tall) vertical hold may have broken in the area of the crux somewhat recently, not sure if that was a key hold or not. May 6, 2018
Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
Nabbed a booty draw on this and the route next to it today. Text me a description and I'll get it back to you: 801.251.6393. May 16, 2018
grog m
grog m   Saltlakecity
Maybe this used to be 10b but in its current condition its much harder than that. I believe the key 'crimp' has broken.

1 star garbage route. Do not recommend. Feb 5, 2019