Eight to Eleven
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Hard Rock
|Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Brian Smoot, Jonathan Smoot, Brandon Prince|
|Page Views:||117 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Jun 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis is the original start to what everyone now climbs as Six to Eleven.
Start on the trail immediately south of the buttress. Scrabble up through the scrub oak, avoiding scratches, punctures, etc.
Once you reach the steeper stuff start up a bit to the left of center and get to the high first bolt. There is one more bolt in the next 50 feet or so.
(Of course, if you're not crazy, which is debatable since you're on the original variation in the first place, you'll clip the last bolt on the start of Six to Eleven with a sling.)
Once you get to the midpoint anchors the fun begins. Up you go on mostly enormous jugs until you step left to surmount the actual roof. A bit of trickery with crimps and balance leads you to the last 15 foot headwall and the chains.
This appears in the Ruckman guide as 5.11b/c. It probably is that if you stay directly on the bolt line, but since everyone (including me) uses the big holds, it's not nearly that hard.
Really, you're better off climbing Six to Eleven.
LocationThe obvious, overhanging roofy bit that is to the west of the alcove containing Rockapella.
The start is on the trail directly south.
You may have to squint a bit to see the first bolt.