Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Duane Anderton, Todd Draper
Page Views: 661 total · 5/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 25, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


100 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb up to and over a stepped roof on huge jugs and pockets through the first three bolts. The most fun bit of the route, but not the hardest bit. The harder part comes after the fourth bolt: Surmount a bulge on a couple of pockets a wee bit less secure and farther out of reach than during the preceding bit.

Continue up vertical rock using standard-issue American Fork pockets (and a few crimps, if you want them) to the chains.

All-in-all, quite an enjoyable route if you enjoy big moves on big holds. The route is easier the farther left from the bolt line you trend; the natural line tends that direction because, to paraphrase Willie Sutton, “That’s where the holds are.”

This route is “comfortably” bolted, meaning you won’t worry much about any potential falls.

Location

This is the right-most of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10c
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10c
I'm not really sure what this should be rated. Last year, a couple that was on it told me they thought, ".10c, maybe .10b"

I got on it for the first time today and I thought it was comparable to Jug for Joy (.10b in the Ruckman guide). On the other hand, it was definitely stiffer than Blood on the Rocks, also .10b in Ruckman.

My partners thought .10c was about right, so that's what we'll call it. When you've climbed it, add your own thought on the rating and maybe the "consensus" rating will converge toward something resembling reality. Oct 25, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
This is a really fun route. Steep and juggy at the start and then it makes you think a little. While cleaning the draws off this I thought it would be cool to climb this route and clip one chain and climb through to the chains higher on the .10a to the left. Oct 25, 2007
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.10b/c
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.10b/c
You could call it 5.10b/c it all depends on you ability to fight the pump just before the chains. The start is extreamly fun! Can easily cross into the route to the left. Nov 30, 2007
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I thought the start of this climb was one of the cooler roofs that I have pulled. It looks pretty intimidating, but there are some really nice big holds that you can use to get over it. Great pumpy route. Jul 22, 2011
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Super fun start over the roof, then pumpy pumpy pumpy through the last moves to the chains! Sep 19, 2011
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
Just a ton of fun. I think the crux is the bouldery section just above the 5th bolt. If you move out to the right a bit for the last couple of bolts you'll find better holds. Quality rock. Sep 22, 2012
Tim Moore
  5.10b/c
Tim Moore  
  5.10b/c
Awesome pump route with super good holds and some fun quasi dyno moves. A must do great route on awesome rock with a great belay spot. May 17, 2014
Lexi Burkholder
Salt Lake City, UT
Lexi Burkholder   Salt Lake City, UT
What is the bolt line that heads up the crack to the left of this line? Aug 14, 2018
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10c
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10c
Born Again. Aug 14, 2018