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Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 3,352 total, 24/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 21, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The right-most route on the southwest face of Hard Rock. There is a large tree just to the right of the route. Solid limestone with lots of pockets and jugs.

The route is quite steep until after the fourth bolt, then easy cruising to the anchors. I thought the crux was between the third and fourth bolts; others were more worried about getting to the first bolt (the landing isn't great, with tree roots on the ground).

There is a large pocket just up from and to the left of the first bolt. Inside is a slimy mass that looks like something from a '50s horror movie. Beware.

Protection

4 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Super slimy holds and awkward moves make this one a route to avoid IMO. May 1, 2014
bsmoot  
Chain links have been replaced Sep 29, 2013
This was an onsight for me at the end of the day. It looked pretty straightforward from the base, but I was taken aback when I got on the wall. It's tougher than it looks- challenging for a 5.8, but I really enjoyed it. Also, Connor is right about the chains being worn down. Aug 16, 2012
Connor England
Tooele, Utah
  5.9- PG13
Connor England   Tooele, Utah
  5.9- PG13
Route was fun, but the holds are getting pretty greased over... Climbing shoes were even slipp'n on a few of the deceiving holds. Should be rated a 5.9- First bolt is pretty far up, have a good spotter. Bottom link on the chains need to be replaced soon, wearing thin... Aug 11, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+
Fun climb on big holds, though they do thin out a bit, as noted by some other comments. The holds are quite greasy, but I didn't run into any bat guano (thank goodness!). Definitely worth doing, a great warm up. Jul 26, 2012
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.8
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.8
Bolt number 3 or 4 is loose, depending on if you count the first bolt as the one next to your shins from the landing. May 4, 2012
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.8
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.8
My wife and I did this one after leading one around the corner (I still can't find out what it is or what it's named, or even a good enough map to tell me which one it is). I enjoyed it. The sun was blazing so it made for a warm and sweaty climb. Being a popular climb makes for a couple polished holds, and the guano doesn't help. I didn't think it was more than an 8. Good holds to be found. It pumped out my wife, but she's kindof new and she had just lead the one around the corner. Jul 22, 2009
Chauncemaster
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Chauncemaster   Sandy, UT
  5.9
A fun climb but definitely seemed a bit harder in spots than the official 5.8 book rating. Oct 4, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.8+
this route was my girlfriend's hardest redpoint to date. i lead it afterwards to clean and it definitely seemed a little awkward, slick and pumpy for an 8. we had two beginners with us that couldn't even pull the opening sequence. for this i'll give it a +. could even be a 9- at parts. Sep 30, 2008
A deceiving route. Jul 8, 2008
Gas Boost is only rated a 5.8 in "Climber's Guide to American Fork Canyon/Rock Canyon" (Ruckman) but it should be rated 5.9; although there are some great jug holds, the space between the third and fourth clips has smaller holds (no jugs).
As a bonus feature, many of the jug holds are filled with smooth, creamy bat guano. Sep 7, 2007