Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 3,064 total · 20/month
Shared By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

100 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


The old guide puts this route at 5.11b. When compared to the other 5.11b's on this wall Primal Magic feels a lot easier. The crux is around the 5th bolt and consists of one committing move to a jug which almost out of sight.


Its the first route to the right of the overhung 5.12 section. Its vertical and its on the light colored face.


7 bolts, chain anchors


This route is much easier than its neighbor Juggernaut. Subjective ratings I guess. Jun 10, 2008
Salt Lake, Utah
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
I think the 11b rating is correct when compared to the Wasatch Range. But might agree that Juggernaut feels a bit harder... but they are quite different climbs. Aug 6, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
this thing is fun. pocket pulling up to a big layback feature with the crux coming at the end of the feature. i felt like it was just as hard as suicide blonde but i havnt done juggernaut yet. Sep 3, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
the crux move on juggernaut is harder than any move on primal magic...however, pm has bigger initial moves and is slightly more sustained. interesting/misleading crux.

Chossy looking blocks of what looks like clay to the left of the lie-back and crux are bad foot holds! a few of them came off and hit my belayer from 40 ft. no bueno. Sep 29, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
Bad Sock Puppet  
Another good climb on hardrock wall. I'd have to agree with a few of the comments, that the rating is questionable to it being an .11b, since both suicide blonde and juggernaut are both harder. What is true about this climb is that it's fun, and makes for a great warm up when you plan to work on the 5.12's to the left. I'm honestly not sure where, or even if there was a crux since there's a great stemming rest about 2/3 the way up, so you get to recover and tackle the last bit easily. Jun 20, 2009
We found the grades on hard rock (primal magic-gas boost) to be a bit strange, with the routes to the right being harder than rated (treehugger-gas boost) and the climbs on the left being easier. I would re-rate them as:

primal magic*** - 10d
juggernaut** - 11a
punch the clock* - 10c
unknown left*** - 5.9
unknown right** - 5.9
treehugger* - 10b
vaporous apparition*** - 10a
gas boost** - 5.9

Or, if primal magic is 11a or 11b for the area, the others should be bumped up. Great climbs, but we started with vaporous apparition and didn't get the warmup we expected! Oct 22, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
I climbed this sans flake (see here) and the difficulty was pretty much the same. There are a couple of pockets and sidepulls where the flake used to be. Aug 24, 2013