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Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Duane Anderton, Todd Draper
Page Views: 4,633 total, 34/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This route is a pumpy, steep, pocket-and-jug haul to the penultimate bolt, then some slopers and crimps to the last bolt, followed by another jug or two to the chains.

The climbing is overhung to the first bolt, less-than-vertical to the fourth bolt, overhung again to the sixth, then vertical.

The crux for me is getting to and clipping the last bolt and then climbing past it. It's probably not as hard as I think, but I'm pretty pumped by then.

Location

This is the middle of three routes on the south-facing, next-to-west-most section of Hard Rock. (There is a newer, three bolt variant start in a shallow dihedral to the right of the bolt line described here, this line is the second-from-the-left).

The least-strenuous way to get there is to follow the trail when it turns right to go to the main Hard Rock wall (west-facing). Go north (left) along the main wall; you will turn west and by staying along the base of the rock you will end up at the base of these three newer Hard Rock routes.

Alternatively, don't turn right to the main Hard Rock area and instead continue straight to the base of the wall you see ahead of you as you come up the trail to the Hard Rock/White Wave/Escape Buttress areas.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
I like the grades on this wall, nice and stiff. Many Options always gives me troubles at the top, fighting a pump and trying to hold on. Fun stuff! Sep 22, 2012
Christian Weaver  
  5.9+
Not knowing the rate before climbing it I was guessing that this was a 5.9. There really isn't a move that was that difficult,but the duration of the route and the pump factor may make it feel tougher. The crux for me was after the last bolt. Good solid route. May 12, 2012
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
Super fun start over the roof, then pumpy pumpy pumpy through the last moves to the chains! Sep 19, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
This is a very nice route! Much better bolted than Stump to its left too. Jun 7, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I climbed this again today; I'll stick with my .10a rating. It's definitely easier than some .10a routes in AF (e.g., Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock)) but harder than others (e.g., Black Hole, Domestic Tension). I did, however, bump the stars I gave it from two to three - this is a fun route. Oct 25, 2007
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
I am of the opinion that the middle route is 10a. When I think about other 5.9s in the canyon, Physical therapy for example, this route seems a touch harder. I have seen solid 10- leaders fall at the top, then send Platinum Blond.
I also think that the route on the right is at least 10d. When I compare, in my mind, this route to a classic 10d like Monkey Meat I come up with 11a (very similar to Deep End).
New route in seam between center and right route is quite squeezed.
New work done at the base of these routes is really nice. Thanks to the hard worker. Oct 11, 2007
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.9
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.9
The middle route is SOLID 5.9 the hardness comes from the pump factor you feel near the top. But nonetheless, this climb is sweet! Way fun warm-up for the main Hard Rock. or Wave Wall. There is a new variation up the really shallow right facing corner between the 5.10 on the right. Pretty simple and kinda a squeeze play. Sep 3, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I've heard that the three routes on this wall are .8, .9, and .10 something. However, the middle route (the obstensible .9) seems a bit harder than .9 and is comparable to Platinum Blonde, if not a bit harder.

Your mileage may vary (I'm probably just weak and easily frightened). Nov 10, 2006