Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Drew Bedford
Page Views: 8,096 total · 53/month
Shared By: veritus on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


177 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Overhung and short. Jugs most of the way up. Moves surrounding the last bolt are slightly desperate.

Location

Left-most line on the west-facing Hard Rock wall.

Protection

bolts

Photos

D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
Wow, how many people have not gotten off the ground on this one. Can a route be polished to a new letter grade? If the bottom gives you fits, try Juggernaut. Oct 11, 2007
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
i noticed a bolt line above suicide blonde that looked good! Does anybody know what the route is named or rated ?? Feb 21, 2008
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
I think you're referring to Beehive. It's like a .12b or something. Here is a photo of the route I think you're referring to : mountainproject.com/v/utah/… Mar 7, 2008
McRae Williams  
5.11b
My buddy led this route and then I top roped it. I fell at the crux, but then sent it. I want to work it on lead. The Longer moves with positive holds really got me stoked. Hope to redpoint soon. May 13, 2008
Hardest 5.11b I've ever tried. VERY polished. I agree with D. Durrant on maybe it's time to bump the grade up. Took several tries and I was still pumped out of my brains when I finally did it. "Eight to Eleven" is very easy by comparison. Jul 3, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.11b
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
  5.11b
classic route. i didnt think the polish made it much harder at all, when compared to baghdad at the division wall i would say it falls right in the middle of the grade. Sep 3, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.11b
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.11b
I think it's correct at .11b. The start has a crappy foot or two, but this is AF after all. Uninspiring black foot nubbins abound, and the climbs are generally solid at their grade. I thought juggernaut seemed harder for what it's worth. (From the one time I've been on each route.) Sep 22, 2008
McRae Williams  
5.11b
Finally went back for the redpoint on this one. Got it after working out a few moves. Excellent route. Oct 20, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b
This is an AF classic. I didn't feel that Suicide Blonde was all that hard, and in fact the feet didn't feel as polished as I expected from all the comments. A tough onsight. The trick to Suicide Blonde is being able to distinguish the good holds for the overabundance of pockets and crimps on the route. Once you've dialed your sequence than it's ridiculously easy. May 25, 2009
Cameron Card
American Fork, Ut
 
Cameron Card   American Fork, Ut
 
yeah I defiantly agree with bad sock p. I would say the rating went down after learning the right beta. defiantly a classic! Jun 1, 2009
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.11b
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  5.11b
All my friends are shorter and they always stacked a rock boost on the ground to get to the 1st jug. I flashed Juggernaut, but Suicide Blonde took me about a dozen tries. I kept falling after the steep part on the easier face above because I was so pumped or so glad to be done with the boulder problem below that I lost my concentration. Aug 4, 2009
John Rosner
Hopkins, MN
John Rosner   Hopkins, MN
Onsighted this with a a jump start. It is polished which makes a difference, however I think which holds I chose and which I didn't made it sendable the first time. I could see choosing some of the other chalked up holds and loosing it. I agree with whoever said that this was harder than eight to eleven. With all the polish, 8 to 11 is a better climb. (just skip going to the 3rd rusty chains) Jul 29, 2011
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.11b
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.11b
Great route! Sep 22, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
The second pitch is 12a or b and excellent. It's not Beehive's second pitch. Apr 11, 2012
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Second pitch is Dreadlocks- 12c May 29, 2012
OldManRiver _
Salt Lake City, UT
OldManRiver _   Salt Lake City, UT
probably the most fun I've had to start a route Sep 29, 2012
Jballz hoctor
toyota tacoma
Jballz hoctor   toyota tacoma
Super soft. Again giant holds with good feet. I've climbed 10b's that are harder than this. Nov 6, 2012
TLEE
Salt Lake City
  5.11b
TLEE   Salt Lake City
  5.11b
This is one of the best routs ive been on. I had to stack a couple rocks to reach the starting holds, but after that its a great series of solid holds and moves. May 23, 2013