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Emotional Geometry

5.10b, Sport, 65 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 62 votes
FA: Jason Desmond
Utah > Wasatch Range > American Fork C… > Hard Rock
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb Stoic Calculus and continue up and right to a nice hand crack with good pockets, slightly overhung at the top. Though this route has been thoroughly cleaned small rocks may still come off until its been climbed more. Use caution as this is a popular area and there may be other groups below.

Protection

Seven more bolts to ring anchors. If you plan on being lowered to the ground from the upper anchors YOU WILL NEED A 70 METER ROPE. With a 60 meter rope you will need to lower back to the anchors of Stoic Calculus.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

<em>Emotional Geometry</em>, near the top.
[Hide Photo] Emotional Geometry, near the top.
The last five bolts and anchors.
[Hide Photo] The last five bolts and anchors.
John Ross in the crack above <em>Stoic Calculus</em>.
[Hide Photo] John Ross in the crack above Stoic Calculus.
Emotional Geometry. Note the rope through anchors of Stoic Calculus bottom left.
[Hide Photo] Emotional Geometry. Note the rope through anchors of Stoic Calculus bottom left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
[Hide Comment] Nice job, I've wanted to bolt that route for years. I can't wait to get on it. Dec 9, 2010
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] The name for this is really good. The upper crack area is emotional and its an unusual crack feature for the area with its bizarre geometry. Off width crack with all kinds of different holds and body positioning. The trickiest part being the feet. Have fun but be careful, its still getting cleaned up. We had some rock fall doing it. Jun 1, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] VERY CHOSSY. As mentioned, this route has some fun, interesting crack/layback movement that you dont find in AF very often. I'd rate this climb higher if it didn't have so much loose rock. Wear a helmet on belay if you have it. Jun 16, 2011
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] May 2013 - pretty clean now, though the crack is still painfully rough. Good thing it's a short crack! Awesome natural continuation of stoic calculus, and not bad if your crack technique is good May 21, 2013
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.10d
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure if something changed, but this route felt significantly harder than 10a or 10b to me. Possible something broke? I'm no crack climber, but the 11b/c around the corner felt a lot easier to me... Mar 25, 2014
Matt Olson
Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Great route! Definitely worth jumping on. Seems like there is only a small portion that requires actual crack climbing technique. I'm not a crack climber. Bolts are placed well and found no choss. There's a great knee-bar halfway up the crack that saved me. Oct 29, 2014
jeff p Pfeiffer
Golden
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Very unique to have bolts on a nice crack, but I'm glad I got to jump on it. My partner and I used it as a good route to practice multi pitch, but it is definitely doable from the ground with a 70 meter rope and a crap ton of draws. Belay station at the first set of anchors is comfy and you can easy see/hear your climber. I did find some loose rocks in the crack but nothing I would say is cause for concern,,, just have your belayer wear a helmet. Mar 13, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] +1 run this as one 35m pitch. So nice to do a long pitch in this canyon of short routes. And how often do you get to do a sport climb and finish on a fun hand/offwidth crack?! Warning, the crack is super sharp so prepare to lose some skin if you jam too deep into it. Mar 21, 2016
[Hide Comment] If you want to lead stoic calculus, then straight into emotional geometry, you will need 16 draws. Use only one at the chains of stoic calculus and you will have enough. Oct 25, 2016
grog m
Saltlakecity
 
[Hide Comment] I am a crack whore so I was PSYCHED to see this. I climbed it from the ground up, super fun pitch and I highly recommend doing it as one long pitch. Crack is very clean, no choss. There are no offwidth moves unless you want to get crazy and make this way harder than necessary. 5.10a hand jamz. Jun 30, 2017
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
[Hide Comment] grog m aka Greg McKee is right. I've climbed more desperate 5.9 cracks, but the angle adds a little spice. Super solid jams, but maybe tape up since the surface in the crack can be irregular and create pressure points. Fun climb. May 16, 2018