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Fantasia
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 1 from 1
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Early Access
Routes in C. Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arrival (removed July 21, 2022), The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Daggers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Book of Momentum S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Spells S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once and Future King, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Return of the King S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Key S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.30276, -105.52422 |
| FA: | Patrick Vernon, Scott Esser |
| Page Views: | 1,961 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Jul 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area WAS closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area WAS blocked off. That has been rescinded.
Description
Once the climb is located, look for a good finger lock in the middle of an eight foot horizontal roof. Arrange protection,then make some strenuous moves to the lip. Although there are jugs at the lip, it is still a little awkward getting established on the face above, and is in definite ankle/tailbone/back breaking territory. Once established on the face above, wander up on less than ideal rock and large chicken heads with intermittent pro (5.8 PG-13) to a ledge with a tree. Rap.
Location
Fantasia is located fifty feet to the left of Dark Horse. Locate a large, open-book, sculpted, v-slot dihedral with easy climbing and a tree sixty feet up. Fantasia, another thirty feet to the left of this dihedral, tackles the longest section of the low-lying roof left of the dihedral (crux) and wanders up chicken heads above the roof.
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