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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
Page Views: 665 total, 6/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I rated this climb a bomb because it was dangerous and little pro. A climber has done it and changed the rating and so his choice to the rating of it. The more the merrier to the start up the Quartet Dike 15ft and exit left to it's near vertical edge. Climb the outside edge with inadequate nailed piton protection. Do committing (5-8) moves. Be intrepid to climb past an expansion block and stand on it to move right. After 50ft up get first reliable pro in. It's a shame that the beginning is problematic because the rest of the climb is solid fun climbing up a series of groove to corner to outside face moves (5-6) with great pro. Worst thing about the climb is that expanding to body weight lay back block. I should pull it off the cliff someday. It wouldn't change the inadequate 50ft of pro though. Be careful of rope drag. This climb would be better leading it with two ropes and two bolts placed where the pro is no good. Belay on Quartet platform terraced ledge. A little rock candy is good to have and too much of it will rot the teeth. I lost my sweet tooth for Rock Candy after my first ascent and left just cavities in the rock rotting there where the dubious pitons once filled those cavities.

Location

Left edge of Quartet Dike

Protection

Bring angles and bugaboos and medium cams or hexes and trad. stoppers. Wear a necklace with St, Michael's medallion.

Photos

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