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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White and Craig Young 2002
Page Views: 2,073 total, 20/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

climb up the obvious incipient crack that splits the head wall above and to the right of All Day Sucker and just left of the Quartet dike. Be equipped with knife blade pitons and short lost arrows. I believed everything was going fine while I was leading it on aid. The pins I had placed appeared to be fine but as I was about to put in the eighth and last pin, the piton I was standing on came out and three more blades came out after that. Consequently I stopped falling on the fifth piton down from where I had been. Fell 30+ft or the whole distance of the head wall. I came to a stop where I had started from about 15ft above Craig belaying me, centimeters from crashing my head off on the platform terraced ledge. Rappelled and on another day placed a bolt on rappel midway. Now this pitch shouldn't kill anybody but it's still in the (A3-4) range. Most of the climb has (5-13,14) potential. excellent granite and if ever free climbed the crack wouldn't be utilized. It's off sized edge would be the handholds for an extreme lay back.

Location

Above Quartet Terraced platforms and left of the dike is this beautiful head wall.

Protection

various small knifeblades and short lost arrows. fixed pins are in lowest section and 1 bolt in the upper middle section. It's not safe and it isn't as bad as it was.

Photos

bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
It would join up to do the finishing pitches of 'Pop Sick Hill' since that was the original line to the belay and this hasn't been done. Next pitch would be very dangerous on trad gear only and possibly not doable without bolts. The line should continue up over the bulge that is cracked to an inclined groove corner. Here the corner becomes a dike with rounded holds (doesn't look proper for sky hooking. After dike a shallow overlap will bring the leader to a large left facing corner. Midway up this corner right is a excellent platform ledge. From there on up the climber will be just right of 'Fugue' upper pitches that are now rotten. I used binoculars on the W.G.R. to look at these details. This long dike pitch above 'Jaw Breaker' without the right equipment is a death pitch. Aug 27, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
What are your thoughts on this climb? Can more pitches be had? I'm into hard aid, as long as I have room for the fall. Jul 16, 2009