Type: Trad, Alpine, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,542 total · 39/month
Shared By: redpoint robby on May 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Start at the base of the left facing crack system on the left side of the Duet Buttress. Climb moderate handcracks until the wall steepens then smear and layback up the blocky crack system (crux). Belay at the base of the enormous left facing corner of Duet Direct on fixed nuts/hexes. 100 feet 5.7

NOTE COMMENTs from two recent climbers who report:" P2 has a lot of loose rock, some of which is in the crack and hard to avoid. Rockfall from p2 would land fairly near the base of Slow and Easy. " RHall NH Admin.
Pitch 2: Begin as for Duet Direct but bail out around the corner to the right before the crack steepens. Protect the move (crux) in a horizontal and move right into a huge right leaning crack. Traverse up and right with awkward technique and plenty of hidden holds in the crack. Enjoy the exposure and belay at a pin on an obvious ledge with small gear. Watch for loose rocks and be careful to protect your second in the last 30 feet; a fall would put them a ways down on the blank face below. 130 feet 5.6

Pitch 3: Depart the ledge up the obvious ramp to the left. Continue up easy ground for about 30 feet. Place a #3 cam about 12 feet above a ledge and downclimb to the anchor for Duet Direct. 45 feet 5.2

This climb can reach the top of the cliff but I have not completed it as the upper pitches are "loose and unmemorable." This is a great way to set up a toprope on Duet Direct. 2 60 meter ropes are needed to barely reach the ground from the anchor.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for WGR but when the talus field is reached head straight up towards the cliff past cairns. The climb starts near the left side of the Duet Buttress at an obvious left-facing crack system.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3 inches. The second pitch could eat cams up to 6 inches but smaller options are available. A #3 is helpful for the final pitch above the downclimb.