Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andy Tuthill and Chris Ellms (8-9-75)
Page Views: 1,548 total, 21/month
Shared By: proto on Nov 19, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

1. Climb the steps and the dark corner above until it's possible to exit left into a V-grove. Belay at the top of the buttress (there is a not so good rap anchor at the far left end of the large terrace). 5.8

2. Climb diagonally right, zigzagging across slabs until you reach a short corner where it's possible to belay. This pitch wanders a bit and has difficult route finding. 5.8

3. Climb the corner and fractured slabs to a small roof. Step left to surmount the roof (crux) and belay above. 5.9

4. A short pitch leads to the base of the obvious bomb-bay chimney. 5.6

5. Climb the chimney to its top (gear deep inside the chimney - strenuous) and exit left and down to a good stance. 5.8

6. Climb slabs to the left, almost to a large dihedral, then back right to a belay on a ledge. 5.7

7. Straight up through a first overlap then slightly left through another overlap. Belay atop a characteristic block. 5.7

8. Easier climbing straight up to the top. 5.6



Location

The route starts in a depression left of Duet Buttress. Start below a dark corner, at 2 large steps.

Protection

Difficult route finding here and there. The gears are sometimes a bit tricky but it's generally reasonably well protected.

Photos

- No Photos -
proto
Falmouth (MA)
 
proto   Falmouth (MA)
 
Stef and I finally climbed this route last summer. It's a great outing with an alpine feeling. Route finding and protections make the route interesting. The rock is generally good. We found that the crux was the small roof near the end of the third pitch. That section does not correspond to the description given by Sykes in "Secrets of the Notch" although we followed the easier path (may be this part was affected by rockfall). Although not for the budding 5.8 leader, this route would deserve to see more traffic! Nov 19, 2011