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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White and Michael, then with Anders Kressy, 2000
Page Views: 576 total · 5/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

Michael and I started this climb up the 'Duet Arête' corner crack (5.8) on the right wall besides the giant dike fissure called Quartet. I led climb and moved up and left away from Duet Arête after the corner (5-6). Then more moves up into a long corner groove. I put in a small angle piton and some small stoppers below the groove corner and went up it hard (5-7) with a run out to a horizontal crack (there are foot ledges left of groove that will down grade this section to being a little easier. Then I moved down and right to create a pin belay where we rappelled.
I went back to the climb with Anders Kressy. Anders led the first pitch and I led the second. I led off left or back into the corner groove run out hard (5-7) from the belay and then moved right at the end of the corner and placed decent protection so that I could ascend up left on great rock ramp (5-8-) into the Quartet’s dike fissure. I stayed in the fissure doing moderate (5-5) climbing for 30-40ft and passed over a very odd body sized block wedged in the fissure (that was way more solid than it looked). After I hurdled the block I continued up the left side of the dike fissure and reached a belay station higher up on top of another block left of the fissure. Bad rock piton placements on this pitch. Came back next year with Craig Young and changed second pitch by moving right onto nice (5-6) face with 1 bolt and placed 1 bolt onto (5-8-) ramp. This pitch is still R rated.

Location

Base of Quartet Dike

Protection

Trad. Rack and piton belay of first pitch bugaboos and lost arrow have been removed by me. The lead pins are still there.

Photos

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