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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
Page Views: 119 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The detached slab came off a year after the ascent. How to start and finish it are the same. Begin on the friction ramp using the tip of a tree branch hung near to the ground for aid up to the shallow ceiling cornered cracks (5.7+). Then I walked across the dirt ramp to climb the 30ft table slab leaning on the cliff. After that moved right above the slab to veer off left to get to a nice strenuous sustained moderate (5-6) shallow corner crack (small off sized cams (aliens) might work in this crack but having none I didn't get any placements) and before this corner crack a decent white birch tree for pro. Above this crack I got in a leaper pin. From here easily climb up to the same belay, rappel station of the 'British We’re Coming'.

Location

left of a the climb called the British We’re Coming and right of the end of Cannonade Buttress. Look for the ramp with a birch tree above it. After tree are ceiling cracks. after cracks is a long tree filled corner.

Protection

1 fixed pin, trad rack and the bottom and top of the climb are still connectable after finishing the ceiling moves go up to a wide groove left to a short head wall (5-6) and move right to finish up corner crack. Be careful of rope drag.

Photos

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