Type: Trad, Alpine, 140 ft
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
Page Views: 411 total · 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The detached slab came off a year after the ascent. How to start and finish it are the same. Begin on the friction ramp using the tip of a tree branch hung near to the ground for aid up to the shallow ceiling cornered cracks (5.7+). Then I walked across the dirt ramp to climb the 30ft table slab leaning on the cliff. After that moved right above the slab to veer off left to get to a nice strenuous sustained moderate (5-6) shallow corner crack (small off sized cams (aliens) might work in this crack but having none I didn't get any placements) and before this corner crack a decent white birch tree for pro. Above this crack I got in a leaper pin. From here easily climb up to the same belay, rappel station of the 'British We’re Coming'.

Location

left of a the climb called the British We’re Coming and right of the end of Cannonade Buttress. Look for the ramp with a birch tree above it. After tree are ceiling cracks. after cracks is a long tree filled corner.

Protection

1 fixed pin, trad rack and the bottom and top of the climb are still connectable after finishing the ceiling moves go up to a wide groove left to a short head wall (5-6) and move right to finish up corner crack. Be careful of rope drag.

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