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Continuation of Rock Candy
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British C0 PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in 2. Duet Area etc
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Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13 |
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Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Sinister Satisfaction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bradley White, Craig Young, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,539 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jun 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Above 'Quartet Ice Hose' belay and rappel station climb corner with (5.8) difficulty from the start. This an excellent solid corner with a deep crack in it. Do (5-10c) moves mid way up as the corner begins to bulge (tri-cams are helpful). Very hard moves are made to get high up the bulge to clip and pull over the bulge by large solid lost arrow pin (A-0). Easily climb up to one smaller than another spooky hollow sounding stacked 8" thick giant table rocks that are wedged into the corner (excellent #3 cam below these). The blocks appeared to be defying gravity with their inclining angled seamless line in the corner. The blocks must be wedged in the corner tightly somehow because of their weight staying on the cliff so unbelievably the way that they are. Lay back the suspended blocks (5-7) and get gear in above them (I didnt dare put any gear in the lay back crack of the blocks for ten ft.) With nothing much to hold onto at the top of the smaller wedged block it is a difficult situation to be in and the bigger the person, the more cramped stuffed into this spot you'll be. After gear (smallest stoppers) stand up (5-9) on top of block. To fall before stopper placements would be disastrous. Then there is a wonderful finish out on the right climbed strenuously but easily (5-4) with a horn of rock over the corner to the Pops Sick Hill block rappel station.
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