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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White, Jim Shimberg, 1986
Page Views: 890 total, 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Under an arch until I was able to stand on top of a block wedged in the arch. 1/4" bolt protected step up from the block over the arch onto a ramp I climbed hard (5-6) to a platform below a shallow corner bolt. This hard (5-7) corner I climbed till it terminated underneath the right side of the large ceiling. Underneath the ceiling it was hard severe (5-8) while traversing below the ceiling. Halfway through the traverse it became no protection until I got in a piton above the ceiling in a crack. A lot of rope went out to clip into the piton. The piton sounded like a good placement and with no good footholds I needed to rest my arms for a while. So I used my head, the top of my head in the granite ceiling so my hands could let go of the rock. I called it a head jam. The head jam also enabled me to extend my arms left to do a hardly extreme (5-10-) to hard severe (5-8) moves until I got to 5-8) Icarus’s corner crack. After that I belayed Jim up onto Icarus. I led up Icarus’s third (5-7) corner to a grand belay ledge just right of Icarus corner. Then I continued climbing the corner till I could climb left up the slab easily (now 5-3) to Sextet. There was a rock slide that change the finish and the start. Start is now (A1) past the bolt. The corner to the finish is gone and the third pitch is (5-3).

Location

Belay at the top of Sticky Fingers move right and down away from the start of Icarus’s climb. Climb slab at bolt.

Protection

Trad. rack, old rusted pins, 2 old rusted bolts. Recommend a bolt kit and pins because it's all rusted.

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