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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White, Ted Hammond, 1982
Page Views: 1,152 total, 11/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The steep dike itself is not climbed but it’s south outside wall is until beneath a shallow ceiling bulge (protection crack fills with pebbles, bring nut pick to pry them out). Get over it and go straight up to belay under loose protruding flake. Here there is easy access to Sam's. Climb pass the horrid loose flake that forms the right side of a crack, avoid contact with it. After crack (if it still exist at all-because much rock has fallen out of this area on Sam's), climb the upside down staircase at 5-10 to either runout 5-9 face finish right (Ted Hammond led it) or much easier moves left to join the beginning of the traverse north of Sam's third pitch. Some Aid used on first accent.

Location

Dike north of top of Sam’s Swan Song’s buttress.

Protection

pins are old now and may need backups. Rappel or finish Sam's Swan Song.

Photos

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