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Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Add Libs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
All Day Sucker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
British Were Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Condemned Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Continuation of Rock Candy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0 PG13
Duet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Duet Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fall from Grace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jawbreaker (not completely done) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Light Brigade, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pops-Sick-Hill T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Raven Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock Candy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rodan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sam's Ghost T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Sam's Swan Song T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sayonara T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sextet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sinister Satisfaction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow and Easy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticky Fingers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White and Young T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2001
Page Views: 3,692 total · 34/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

At the right of the south-facing corner move up until on top of staircase of holds (5-6 but very awkward boulder problem) move up (5-8) or across (easier) left into the large corner. Exhilarating moves and then there is a rest in the corner. Go up the corner moderate(5-5) and move onto the outside of it to traverse right 10ft on the wall to find pin protection in a crack. Continue up crack (harder, 5-7) or move back left to climb up the outside of the corner until able to go right again (or go back left into the corner, easier), back to the crack and (to follow this crack (5-7) 20+ft sustained it will end at a horizontal crack to traverse right and the end of traverse was protected by large lost arrow but I removed it and its complicated) move right from crack to Quartet's left side terraced garden. Belay with small angle and gear can be made here. Higher up is the rappel station but it is necessary to be at this lower place to protect the second from a large pendulum swing.
The rock on this pitch doesn't get any better than this on Cannon. Very airy and exposed for a base pitch climb. I utilized both belays because why not.

Location

Left of the Quartet dike. Just to right of Fugue start is a steep inclining staircase of 12+ft of boulder moves (5-6). Look for the bad bolt placement (I intend on sawing it off and replacing it and there are 2 soft iron shallow placement pins and 1 stuck stopper in a small pocket crack in the rock wall. You'd have to be blind to not see all this junk. It should be cleaned up, someday.

Protection

Trad rack, small to medium stoppers and medium hexes, friends or tri-cams. Before the crux is a soft iron hardly in pin above a ridiculously badly placed bolt (the hole's deep but it got stuck during placement) and a descent wire nut in a pocket within reach. It looks like inexperienced climber's crap and that sucks, back up the stopper with another one and it'll be truck. Pin rappel anchor.

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