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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: B. Smoot, B. Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 882 total, 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Among many other things, Earthling also happens to be an electronica/rave album from the late 90's by the artist David Bowie. Unlike the album, this climb is actually good.

Whether this has anything to do with the route's name or not, i can see some similarities. Like Bowie's album, Earthling will start you out feeling in the groove. Move your hips left and right over confident ground though a small roof. Continue from here to a clean, blank face. Climbing into alien terrain seems to be the crux and like Bowie's album its going to only gets worse, before it gets any better. Remix your feet a few times to gain a good side pull and edge. Pull the bulge and get back into the swing of things by shifting right through some less demanding and more rhythmic rock. Finish up and right at a two bolt anchor.

Location

Earthling is slightly uphill from the base of The Millstone. It sits just left of Miller Time and is the last route before having to hop the large boulders at the pine tree.

Protection

Six bolts to a shared two bolt anchor.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
IMO...5.11a/b...cranky and confusing, but good climbing if you fancy yourself a 5.11 climber. Apr 22, 2015