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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 613 total, 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs up and over one of the more attractive features on the Millstone, a left-leaning, left-facing corner reminiscent (at least to me) of similar features in Eldo. I think this is among the top 3-4 routes on the crag and a good precursor to getting on the more difficult lines of Stone Ground, Moon Walk, and The Maize. In the narrative for this route in their guide, the Ruckmans comment, "Some sort of vindication"? Uh, if the odd are the Ruckmans, I'd say yes, and then some.

Location

The bolt line left of Stone Ground/The Maize, starting with two bolts left of an obvious, attractive left-leaning, left-facing corner.

Protection

Draws. Bolts on top rigged for lowering.

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
Powerful, overhanging, and true to the grade, this is a terrific offering at the Millstone with the crux after the 4th bolt. Apr 22, 2015