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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Howe, Jim Haisely, Keith Maas 1989
Page Views: 1,518 total · 9/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Oct 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Strong Arm with the Lads is the first line of bolts after the large boulder as the trail progresses westward up the trail. If you're looking for a climb with fun powerful moves, this is your ticket. Two good roofs and slab in-between, who could ask for more? It could probably get three stars if it weren't for the messy anchoring system at the top. We need it replaced with chains.

Protection

8 bolts; two more at the top with (as of now) questionable slings through them and 2 rap rings.

Photos

Dave Wachter  
 
Great route. Steep and juggy. Jun 3, 2008
Abandoned User
  5.11a/b
Abandoned User  
  5.11a/b
Ruckman guide has this at 11a. Sep 13, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Almost as good as its neighbor, Stone Ground, but much easier. This felt like 10b compared to that one, but soft 11a sounds about right. Jugs, jugs, jugs. Find the good holds over the roof and you're home free. Jul 28, 2012
Kurt Howes  
 
If you go straight up over the roof, in the bolt line, then it's a full value 5.11. I think most, based on the chalked holds, clip above the roof and then move out right into 10.d terrain. I recommend clipping from the left hand jam then continue to move straight up. Both variations are fun! Sep 2, 2013
dnaiscool  
 
One of the best routes at the Millstone!! Killer, steep climbing on solid holds with fun stretchy movement. Going right to pass the roof, and then heading back left is a notch easier...and it is simply more enjoyable movement. Apr 22, 2015

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