Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Keith Maas, Eric Wood 1989
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A typical Millstone route, Eraserhead climbs a fun edgy wall, which is crossed by a pair of cracks. The cracks grant a reprieve from the thin holds.

Location

The first route that climbs straight from the boulder field as opposed to the slab, just left of the arete.

Protection

4 draws and a small rack for the pair of cracks. 2 bolts with webbing up top, bring extra webbing just in case.

Photos

- No Photos -
dnaiscool  
 
Stiffer than the grade...IMO... 5.11b/c... when compared to the other routes in this area. That techy crux at the second bolt is quite sequential and calls on some sporty foot movements on sharp, balancy fins.

You'll need protection for the route to supplement the bolts:
#3-5 RP
Doubles TCU #0-3
one each Camalot from #.5 to 2 Apr 22, 2015
Wally29
Salt Lake City, Utah
Wally29   Salt Lake City, Utah
American Death Triangle was replaced 6/28/10 with cordelette Jun 30, 2010