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Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Bret Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,690 total · 11/month
Shared By: David Shiembob on Jul 8, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Fun traversing line. Third fully bolted line on Millstone (counting from the bottom). The crux is around the first bolt. Edgy face climbing that ends by wrapping around a corner to the anchors, which feels pretty exposed. Fun, and the follower can take some big swings if they pop soon after unclipping a bolt.

Protection

4 bolts to chain anchors
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
I remember this route being a bit of a dumpy lead. However I think it is worth mentioning that trending to the right from the first to the second bolt is the way to do it. I took several falls on the first bolt because I kept getting drawn into the corner. However if you take the exposure and edges on it is a pretty genuine 5.10a, and the route flows much better this way. Not a good choice for a new climber 2nd as mentioned above. Jul 16, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
Spooky...dangerous for the (weak) second...not recommended. There are a plethora of really great climbs in this area, so just pass this one by, is is certainly not gonna live up to the visual beauty of the stone it climbs...and you could get an injury. Apr 22, 2015
Alec LaLonde
  5.10c
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10c
Probably more hazardous for the follower than the leader, as a fall at the crux after unclipping the first bolt can be bad. My girlfriend took a good swing at this section and sprained her ankle pretty badly -- made for an unpleasant journey back out to the car. Jul 29, 2011
Jake K.
Salt Lake City, UT
Jake K.   Salt Lake City, UT
I also think this route is more challenging than the tie die route. Especially clipping the chains.... You have to work your way around the corner onto all slopers. Unless you are super tall! Once you have it on tope rope, try the roof between the two climbs, it starts out easy, then when you get to the edge of the roof, its a looong reach to a small hold, then its over. Just be careful you dont pull out the loose big block underneath the overhang!! Sep 19, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
Very tricky sequence down low (between bolts 1 and 2), and my group all felt this was harder than Tie Die. 5.10c was our consensus. Once you reach the 2nd bolt, it eases up drastically, until the last bolt (kind of mantly move), and then a heady finish to the anchors as your hands get all slopey. Enjoy Jun 3, 2006