Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Millstone

Against the Establishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle of Repose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blockbuster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bush Doctor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calling All Karmas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cat Juggling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Earthling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eraserhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hollow Excuses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Intelligient Life Form S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead Balloon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maize, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miller Time S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milling About T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millstone Slab T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Moon Walk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Odd Get Even, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pencilneck T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Personal Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Private Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick Figure Stays Home S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Ground S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strong Arm With the Lads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Surfing on a Rocket T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tie Die S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yuppie Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Keith Maas, Eric Wood 1989
Page Views: 2,756 total, 17/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Oct 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route is the second line of bolts as you work your way up the steep trail and over the obvious boulder that is in the middle of the trail.

Fantastic climbing with a little bit of everything: Jugs, sidepulls, crimps, underclings, technical reachy moves it's got it all. Watch the footwork!

Protection

6 bolts; two bolts at the top for anchor (quicklinks and SMC rolled aluminum rap rings—don't lower through the rings).

Photos

- No Photos -
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
First 3 comments had me laughing... hard. Thanks! Mar 29, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
One of the best in bcc. The FA dudes may have been short on bolts when putting this one up, but it adds to the flavor. The move to the hole jug is awesome, and I found a sweet one finger pocket hole of sorts to clip the 2nd to last bolt. Hard for 11b, but super quality. Jul 28, 2012
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
  5.11+
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
  5.11+
Think its hard for short climbers... great route though, don't blow the second clip Aug 10, 2011
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
First two bolts are a little run out but on easy terrain. The business end of the route is between bolt 3 and 5. Excellent crimpers and side pulls with a few jugs along the way. Don’t forget to utilize a knee bar half way up to gain a much needed rest before pushing through the upper crux. This is such a fun route with exquisite moves and body positions all the way up. Sep 22, 2008
WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
  5.11c
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
  5.11c
Hard for the grade, but I think due to the bolting. Still a classic climb. Aug 6, 2008
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
REALLY hard if your stupid Jul 12, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Hard if you're short. Jun 2, 2008
tenesmus  
 
hard if you're tall. Sep 9, 2006